Y Crack

This is a great beginnner route, and a good route for a first trad lead as there are a lot of no-hands stances to use while you fiddle with gear. Y Crack shares anchors with the Heart Route, so you can set up a TR for the kiddos while you get some climbing in. Check out Hot Licks too(to the right), it's a great way to get a good burn in between belaying for your snot-nosed kids.

The obvious crack on the far left side of the main wall.

Regular trad rack up to 3 inches. Traverse in from the west end of the Main Wall to set up a TR.