- Edit (TBD)
Description
Some interesting moves.
Start just right of tree trunk which is about five feet right from below rappel anchor, just left of directional bolt and 10-15 feet left from bush on platform. Immediately over a bulge, aim roughly straight up (perhaps over another bulge), toward hidden two-bolt anchor near back edge of top of cliff.
warning
: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).
Location
Below a bulge just right of tree trunk which is about five feet right from below rappel anchor; and just left of directional bolt and 10-15 feet left from bush on platform.
See Q on this Photo
Protection
Fixed protection only two top anchors.
No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.
Upper anchor is two-bolts-connected-by-chain, with rappel ring.
. . (Bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel 3/8-inch x 2.75-inch. Installed 2017).
. . (Chain + quick-links + lower hanger + rappel ring are Plated steel. Installed 2018).
Lower anchor two-bolts-connected-by-chain with ramshorn lower-off.
. . (bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel 3/8-inch x 2.75-inch. Lower hanger + ramshorn (pigs tail) lower-off are 316 Stainless steel. 5-link chain + quick-links are Plated steel. Installed 2018).
Protection for Trad leading is unknown, and likely inadequate.
Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor,
see Description page for Moynier sector
.
note
: Since the anchor is set well back from the top of the steep part of the cliff, likely need a long sling or two to connect to the bolts for top-roping, to avoid rope drag and abrasion of the belay rope.
In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.
Routes in 8-Moynier
- 18Right High Face5.6Tr