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Peak Mountain 3

Right High Face

FA TR Ken Roberts
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Some interesting moves.

Start just right of tree trunk which is about five feet right from below rappel anchor, just left of directional bolt and 10-15 feet left from bush on platform. Immediately over a bulge, aim roughly straight up (perhaps over another bulge), toward hidden two-bolt anchor near back edge of top of cliff.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Location

Below a bulge just right of tree trunk which is about five feet right from below rappel anchor; and just left of directional bolt and 10-15 feet left from bush on platform.

See Q on this Photo

Protection

Fixed protection only two top anchors.

No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.

Upper anchor is two-bolts-connected-by-chain, with rappel ring.

. . (Bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel 3/8-inch x 2.75-inch. Installed 2017).

. . (Chain + quick-links + lower hanger + rappel ring are Plated steel. Installed 2018).

Lower anchor two-bolts-connected-by-chain with ramshorn lower-off.

. . (bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel 3/8-inch x 2.75-inch. Lower hanger + ramshorn (pigs tail) lower-off are 316 Stainless steel. 5-link chain + quick-links are Plated steel. Installed 2018).

Protection for Trad leading is unknown, and likely inadequate.

Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor,

see Description page for Moynier sector

.

note

: Since the anchor is set well back from the top of the steep part of the cliff, likely need a long sling or two to connect to the bolts for top-roping, to avoid rope drag and abrasion of the belay rope.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.