Stern Farmer

Climb the initial section of Japanese Gardens until you can protect the rightward entry moves with a bolt (at the chalkstone halfway up the hands section ). At this point the climb turns strenuous and technical. Once established in the corner climb through hard moves up to an obvious pin scar, from here another challenging section leads to a purely fun .11 finger crack to the chains. The second pitch has now been freed at .12d (I think), though I have never tried, so don't hold me to that.

Start as for Japanese Gardens. From the ground it is the obviously difficult looking right facing corner that trends rightward off of Japanese Gardens.

Protection is thin, but there. Everyone that I know seems to protect this testpiece a bit different. It is all there, just not the most obvious.