- Edit (TBD)
Description
Balancy and technical face and arete climbing. Little spicy with a runout between 3rd and 4th bolt. Holds are sometimes difficult to find but they are there and they're decent. The question is: can you hold on long enough to find them?
Belay from the ledge with a bolt. Frome here step right and go up the face. You could start 40ft lower and add a pumpy 5.10c crack (bring medium cams and nuts).
The name of the climb comes from Tom Waits's song "Putnam County":
And they'd suck on Coca Colas, yeah, and be spittin' Day's Work Until the moon was a stray dog on the ridge and... And the taverns would be swollen until the naked eye of 2 a.m. And the Stratocasters slung over the Burgermeister beer guts And swizzle stick legs jackknifed over naugahyde stools... yeah
Location
Face on the pillar to climber's left of Jim's Crack. The easiest way to locate the bolts is from the top of Jim's Crack. Bolt for belay anchor is at the grassy ledges left of the arete.
Protection
4 bolts, 1 additional bolt at the belay. Small cams (yellow Alien) useful to reduce the runout between bolt 3 and 4.
Routes in Palisade Head
- 21Swizzlestick Legs5.11cSport · Trad