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Peak Mountain 3

Astral Travelin'

FA Brady, Leap, Plesser December 2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Finest V8R in SWPA. Mega, committing, sustained. Anchors are accessible with a long (18ft) stick. TR recommended (just TRing this thing is great--you could be happy never bouldering it, especially since bouldering it carries serious injury potential). Grade is v8/.13b. This might be a little soft in the grade, but be very, very careful if you're going ground up. The route stays with you to the very top, and even after the jug at the lip, you have a couple technical moves heading left around the arete, followed by some easy climbing over dicey death blocks.

Location

The incredible sheer, steep face around the corner left from Wide Awake Nightmare. Start down in the bottom pit right, matched on a little edge close to right arete. Climb through a little bouldery section  to the good horizontal, then trend right through incut flakes, then back left through right-facing flake a flat jug. Continue left toward arete and up to incut jug at lip, then around left using hidden holds or handjams to stance. Be very careful for the final VB topout, which is on dicey death blocks. Clear the zone below.Undone variation 1: don't go into right facing flake, instead, trend right and direct up, using right arete as necessary (V10?)Undone variation 2: Once you hit the 2/3 height flat jug, do a big move right to a similar flat jug, then go up direct with a huge deadpoint over the lip. Very committing. (V9?)The arete into crack in between Wide Awake and Astral Travelin' (using left hand on arete and right hand into seam) is a hard, sketchy project.

Protection

many pads