From the belay, climb up the slab angling left past a bolt (runner). Get gear before pulling through a blocky roof & clipping a bolt overhead. Balance & swim left via the undulating diagonal crack (med. stopper) into a full rest in the mini cave / alcove. Reach high above & place gear (.5 & .75 c4) before launching into the overhanging finger crack & v4 crux finish. Clip lower off chains from a very exposed position & lower, or mantle over the top to climb through.

Extend all placements besides the 2nd bolt & the crux pro.

Slim Slam

Half Cat

Wynter is coming

Amazing pitch of climbing, like nothing else in SD. Gently overhanging finger locks, tips locks, face climbing, & compression high above small offsets. It is relatively short, which adds to the value. The gear requires some respect, as the ledge below is never that far away.

From the belay, climb the easy slab with 1 bolt, pull up on some sharp blocky protrusions clipping 2 fixed pins before committing to thin finger locks above. Pass several cruxes arriving at a large triangular hold, place a small offset (red yellow x4) & swim right then compress up the white refrigerator block. There is a lower off anchor to the left where difficulties ease, or climb through to the top of the headwall.

Powerful, precise & bouldery climbing on immaculate sculpted golden rock. Some of the coolest holds I've touched. The route can be broken into 4 sections:

From the belay stance 10' right of half cat, climb carefully up the easy slab angling slightly right clipping 1 bolt (runner).

From the stance at the base of the headwall, clip the two bolts, monkey up to the third & lower back down if you value your shins. Fire a 10 move v10 sequence of compression, dead points, precise footwork & some lower body tension culminating at a big move left to a deep diagonal slot.

From the Slot, traverse right through a really cool sequence that requires some strong shoulders & precise footwork to a right hand "smiley face slot". Crank through two very crimpy moves with precise feet to a big flat hold. This section is 7 hand moves, V7.

From the flat hold, keep it together as you swim left then up via generally good holds & high feet. Get one last shake before the Slopey top out.

Lower off via (2) double gates, or climb through another 12' feet of easy terrain to the top of the ledge.

This route was bolted the day my wife told me she was pregnant with my first born son, Wynter.

Description

Protection

Routes in Headwall