Invisible Flying Gargoyles

Wingman

Tail Gate Party

Anonymous Coward

Mr. Whipple's Wild Ride

Howler Monkey

Local Yokel

Triathlon

Obliteration Divine

Destructomatic

Confusion Tactics

Hunger Pains

Ticks Dig Me

Pair o’ grins

Handy Capable

Toads Hollow

Bionic Bitch Slap

This route shares the same anchors as Handy Capable.  Straight up the small dihedral with funky but fun moves.  Trend right to the anchors.

This climb starts with Confusion Tactics, but breaks right across the rail and then up the center of the main overhang.  After being an Open Project during the closure, this route got sent this weekend (02/16/13)!  5.12C with the business end being a V5/6 boulder problem breaking up off of the rail.

Climb up the bolted route in the middle of the slabby outcropping.  This leads to a huge ledge, which continues up more slab fun to the top of the route.

This route is an excellent choice for your first sport lead, as all areas are protected, and there's even a huge ledge for a resting place to calm down once you're way off the ground!

This route is the right-most existing climb on the Wreckage Wall. To get the safest start to the route, climb up to the second grassy ledge above the main floor of the Wreckage Wall.

Climb up 3 short bolts using large jugs on a mostly vertical face.  There are certainly some tricky sections with hidden holds which make this a really good 5.8 climb.

Climb the start of

Local Yokel

(5.8), and instead of heading up onto the chosspile, head up and right into a large (10 -12 feet) feature on nearly vertical rock. Traverse the feature using anything you can find to hold onto, and then top out to the top anchors.

The feature is awesome, and requires quite a bit of fancy footwork.

This route heads up the right side of the large rocky outcropping in the middle of the Wreckage Wall.

Climb up the slab to where it meets the outcropping, where liebacks await using feet on the slab. Continue up and left onto the top of the outcropping, where 2 bolts of very easy climbing bring you to the top anchors.

The route that branches off this route to the right is called

Howler Monkey

(5.10d), heads off the slab to a large roof-like feature.

Start to the right border of the large overhang on the Wreckage Wall.  Start up an easy bolt to a vertical low crux on smooth rock.  Hit the middle portion of the climb following larger holds to a techy microcrux as the wall steepens.  Once over the bulge, easier climbing to the anchors.

Start up a series of blocky moves to a high first bolt (easy to get too and keeps you from decking) then it's slopers and pinches to a short crux undercling. Remember the undercling! Delicate footwork lead to a perplexing bulge with hidden moves out left then onto an exposed arete to a short headwall just before the anchors.

In a small alcove, start up a low slab to an obvious short bulge guarding a vertical headwall with bouldery moves between good holds.

Start below the left facing corner / left border of the large overhang.  Up an easy slab to a shallow corner that becomes more prominent and more overhung the higher you go.  The crux guards a nice rail and a no hands rest at the apex of the overhang.  From there, an easy romp up to the anchors.

This a route two bolted lines left of the namesake wrecked car on the Wreckage Wall.

A balancy mantle start on to a slab heads up vertically after the first 15 feet. Follow the rib up and up, until a final move onto the slab 15 feet below the top anchor. Excellent climbing, and a very doable .10c.

This is the second route from the right on the Wreckage Wall, which starts on the precarious first grassy ledge.

Climb up the leftward dihedral, which isn't all the obvious. There are a couple of moves that are a little confusing, but excellent moves once you figure them out. You're pretty much done once you top out over the edge.

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Avoid doing this route on crowded days. Best done on a weekday, or early morning)

Important question at the end of description

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A fun second pitch to either hunger pains or Bionic. A 5.9 climb for 5.10 climbers. Bolts are further apart than normal for Auburn Quarry since it’s on a slab and is easier than the approach pitch. The second bolt is easy to reach, but be careful not to fall while clipping it due to the ledge below.

The route trends right from the anchors and follows the shallow S shaped corner over the lip of the cliff up to a nice ledge at the very top of wreckage wall. Most of the climbing takes place on the face to the left of the corner for the first half of the route until it crosses over it near the top.

This is a great multipitch practice route for a confident sport leader. Also has a great view from the top!

Rappel the route with a 70m rope or walk off the top all the way down to the backside of scale wall. The walk off is doable, but is kind of sketchy at one point and only for those who want a bit of an adventure.

(Be very aware of climbers below you while you are climbing this and setting the rappels. The rock is solid and cleaned, but there is some dirt at the top and some pebbles may come down while you’re up there. TIE KNOTS AT THE END OF YOUR ROPE WHEN YOU RAPPEL)

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Do you think it is worth having this route accessible? There’s certainly a risk of rockfall to having climbers on the second pitch while there are people climbing below. That being said this route is fun and great to climb during a non-busy day. Do the benefits of having a new quality climb and second pitch outweigh the potential risks of rockfall caused by someone irresponsible climbing above people while it’s busy? Please comment below. The hangers can always be taken off the bolts if that’s what the community wants.

Head up the small roof just underneath the arching crack.  Follow this and then trend left up and over the overhanging corner.  Shares anchors with Mr. Whipples Wild Ride.

Another classic quarry chossy alpine route. Starts in the groove left of Whipples, uses a few holds on Whipples at the crux, stay left for full value. Climb the upper rib to a ledge with bolts and musseys. Heads up for belayer (and leader), still lots of loose stuff.

This route starts immediately left of the buried car's tailgate. From the left, it starts on a slab just to the left of the chunky bolted outcropping in the middle of the Wreckage Wall.

Climb up very simple slab climbing to interesting moves on a smaller yet more defined rib than on

Hunger Pains

(5.10c). Comtinue up to a ledge, and then over a overhanging section where hands and feet become relatively scarce. Mantle out, and walk the final 15 feet to the top anchor.

Description

Routes in Wreckage Wall