2 short pitches of 3rd-4th class belayed climbing above plenty of heather and snow climbing. From Dutch Miller Gap, ascend the northeast ridge, basically. Hike heather and rock steps 500 feet to an open area, shaded enough that snow is often present. This continues upward to a cirque below the east face. Ascend up to just below the summit, while still in the snowfield. The first 60 ft belayed pitch begins directly upward; move left at the top where you can see the direct pitch to the summit.

Variations include heading to the north ridge from the upper snowfield instead, or directly up class 4 slabs from the basin (four pitches of roped climbing.)

Northeast Face

Northwest Face

While the Northeast Face is a simple scramble, this is a long, exposed undertaking on excellent gneiss with continous climbing and good protection.

Begin from the Summit Chief valley as reached from the Middle Fork.

P1-5: 700 feet of 4th and low 5th with some steeper steps, can be simulclimbed.

P6-14: The business, following crack systems on excellent rock. P6 5.8+, P7 5.7, P8 5.6, P9 5.9, P10 5.7, P11 5.8, P12 5.6, P13/14 5.7. This will finish on the ridge crest.

P15: Easy, exposed pitch along the ridge to the summit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Little Big Chief