A powerful series of pinches, gastons and sidepulls lead the way to a thin finish!

Wango Tango

Trash Kicker Var.

Grumpkin

Unknown

Boy Wonder

Wasp Stop

Dream Destroyer

Face Up

Long Shadows

Macedonia

Bumblies in the Dark

Credibility Check

Twisted Memories

The Bleaker

Tom Slick

Your Onus

Golden Feat

Smooth Operator

Mindbleeder

Strangle Hold

Trash Kicker

Crank it or Yank it.

Mind Stream

A technical and beta-intensive boulder problem constitutes the first 3 bolts. I think it warrants V5. Don't be surprised if at first you feel like there aren't enough holds or feet- its cryptic down low. Above the third bolt you can enjoy mostly sinker pockets and generally good holds- its probably only 11a/b to the chains. This route is an easy tick at the grade- suss out the lower 9 move boulder problem and even someone with poor fitness could hang on to the finish. The climbing is enjoyable, but the rock is less than perfect.

This is the .12a first pitch to the other

Trash Kicker

already posted here on MP, the route starts with good pocket climbing, then has some delicate face climbing that is technical in nature, and finishes with a huge mantle to get up to the chains.

The first bolt starts in some broken rock below the terrace, a nicer approach is climbing the quality gray stone and joining in at the second bolt.  From the large stance, the hard climbing begins and is continuous for the next 3 bolts.   Work up a series of underclings and sidepulls to gain the bulge.   Sticking the large flake above the bulge is the crux.   Easier but enjoyable climbing to the end.

The line that everyone who ever climbed

Boy Wonder

looked over at and thought, "Someone should bolt that." Apparently someone did.

Face climbing, a bit of stemming, and steady nerves are needed. The bolting is sparse enough, the angle low enough, and the protuberances numerous enough that falling in certain places would certainly be unpleasant, to say the least.

Two lines left left of a BIG corner and around a minor prow. Steep pockets eventually relent to an easy slab. The last few moves are sort-of tough if there isn't any chalk on the holds. Do this part on the left side of the anchor. A little runout at the end.

Nice steady climbing.

A good warmup, which this crag lacked.

Dream Destroyer

.... Is it because it doesn't look hopeful?

Feet were not invented prior to this route being born. What seems to be the next best option at the wall, turns out to be a footless, footloose, stint up a steep and difficult face. That being said, don't let this stop you, some great holds and good movement make this an exciting, memorable line. Hang on, things will always get better.

Although there is little to work with,

Dream Destroyer

is actually a really nice line, you just need to survive the first 15 feet. Crank on!

Best of the 3 routes "island of 3 12"

Climbs on sidepulls and some crimps.  Rock is more solid than I thought it would be.

This is a very unique climb. It climbs to a small roof with pockets then to crimpers and small pockets with good reaches up the arete. It starts overhanging a bit then goes vertical. The view is awesome. Thanks BB and tom caldwell

Really good route on excellent golden stone. I climbed up, clipped the first bolt, got onto the big ledge and clipped the second bolt and then reached down and un-clipped the first bolt to prevent rope drag. Balancy and subtle for the first three bolts. Precise and sequential footwork is necessary. The next three bolts are easier climbing on cool flat and occasionally incut edges. Another crux awaits at the sixth bolt, some flagging might be the trick to grabbing the big left facing flake pinch. Shake out on the giant jug, clip the seventh bolt and eye up the next section. Two crimps and a high foot will get you to the big horn jug and up to the chains.

Start from the ledge directly below the route and balance your way through blue and tan mineral deposits past three bolts.

Figure out how to get established on and then past the enjoyable, juggy-but-balancy roof. Eyeball the crux, commit, and get past it with a powerful, reachy move.

Cruise to the chains with just a bit of apprehension when jugs turn to slopers near the top.

A strenuous, exciting roof, followed by some uneasy struggling through small holds to briefly easier terrain, followed by a difficult, hard-to-read section just before the chains.

Start up on light-colored slabby terrain for two bolts under the dark-colored, intimidating roof. The third bolt is under the roof and difficult to see from the ground.

Figure out the roof and head onto steep, tan limestone on smallish holds.

A respite follows for a bolt or two, and then a bit of head-scratching confusion follows while fighting the pump before the chains.

The climb starts on small side pulls. At the second clip the feet get real tricky. The climb takes you right then left and is fairly technical. The middle section is tenuous - the search for feet continues. Surmount the small bulge with some jugs. At the top it still continues to be hard with crimpers to the chains. The chains are on your right with a large ledge at top. When we were there feet were crumbling off probably making it more challenging. For me it was a sustained and stout 11c wanting to be 11d.

Pockets and edges to a high first bolt, then surmount a small roof and pass the second bolt. Scoot up and under a large roof and clip the third bolt.  Find your way up and around the left side of the big roof, clip the fourth bolt, then figure out a path up and right to the chains.

o·nus

(n.)

1.

A difficult or disagreeable responsibility or necessity; a burden or obligation.

2.

A stigma or blame.

and a burden it is....this route fits both definitions.

Difficult climbing up a

stigmatic

face. Begin up a right leaning series of blocks and climb this odd section to a mini roof and feasible rest. Clip a bolt and quickly meet a sparse, barren crux. The route quickly turns to some powerful movement through a tough sequence over some very thin terrain. Fire this crux, then hold on for the pocket to pocket finish.

Powerful and tweaky, don't let this become Your Onus!

Like nearly all the routes on this wall, the hard-to-read crux is found between the 2nd than 3rd bolt. Good footwork will reduce this "feat" from 12c to 12b.

Perhaps this wall should be referred to as the "hard-start wall?" If you suss the perfect beta, the climb goes from feeling nearly impossible to really only being v4. The remainder of the routes stems and climbs up shattered, but generally solid choss up through sustained pockets and edges- the finish of this route is noticeably more sustained and difficult than the routes to the left. Perhaps 11c/d endurance finish?

Same as the main wall routes.

Bouldery start to nice pockets/jugs.

Starts on a fun techy slab. Suggest stick clipping the second. Climbs through not quite vertical sustained section to jug pockets under small roof. This is the crux. Tricky beta leads to a small run out to chains.

Slabby start with good crimps, sidepulls and 1 fat under cling. Good holds up to nice rest before crux starts. High left to good pocket starts Crux. Long reach sets up a more sustained crux than the neighbor to the left. This is the worst of the 3 on the "3 12's island."

A long and arduous line.

Mind Stream

climbs a straight, yet windy path to an unobvious crux just past its half-way mark. Sustained and pumpy, this route will keep your senses sharp. Take advantage of rest opportunities.

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