P1 5.10a Climb easy angular rock for a few bolts then make a tenuous step right at the 3rd bolt. A quick mantle and short corner lead to a nice belay. P2 5.7 follow a line of bolts up a weakness that becomes steeper and harder towards the top when it opens into a dehidral. Lower to the previous belay point and belay sport style for the second pitch. Can be climbed and lowered with a 70m in a single pitch.

Kinky Reggae

Astro Cat

Flying Pigs

Textbook

Forever's Last Stand

The Sting

Three Different Ones

Nick's Memorial Roof

Good Dogs Gone Bad

The Balcony

A long adventure climb that weaves its way up the Balcony.

 Make good use of runners to avoid rope drag.

 Same start as The Balcony. Stick clip, make HARD moves onto the slab, or pull up C0, like a toprope hero! After the fourth bolt move left towards a corner and roof. Climb up this and out of the roof using a chock stone that "feels like it was made for climbers". Rounding out of the roof there are good holds but you'll have to feel around before you find them. Clip a bolt to your left and pull up onto the slabby ledge. A few more bolts lead past a bunghole feature and to the top.

 Named for the unfortunate cat who decided to nap underneath Nick's Astro van only to wake up and bail out heading onto I93. The cat did actually make it back home and surprisingly lived a long and only slightly traumatized life.

This striking arete is THE reason I bought a hammer drill and learned to bolt. Flying Pigs has been likened to a certain Hawaiian of the same prefix at a nearby crag. Maybe you've heard of it? In no way do the routes resemble each other but could very well end up with the same reputation. A must do rock climb!Stick clip a HIGH bolt. Climb out of a bit of an awkward corner and up to a big under cling before fingery cracks lead you left to a stance. From here steep climbing up flakes with somewhat weird clips out right take you to where you can step right and gain the arete. Get ready as there is lot more climbing still to come. Fly up the slab using the arete on and off until after the last bolt where the climbing eases off but becomes a bit run out. Wow that's an experience! This is a totally classic line but in my opinion might be marred a bit by rock quality in a couple of sections. Let's see what others think and if it cleans up a bit with some traffic. 

After cleaning on rappel Nick led this on gear calling it textbook. The gear really isn't the most straightforward but if your a solid climber at the grade you should be able to make it work. I did re-clean this recently but bring a nut tool to possibly excavate some more small placements. Start up a short sometimes wet finger crack to a ledge to the base of a big dehidral. Climb this until it ends at a bolted anchor with rings. 

Desert patina in New Hampshire, wicked cool! Stick clip, place a cam, or boulder the start.WIDE stemming up the slightly spicy corner brings you to cute little roof. Progress through this using your excellent flexability, creativity, and some holds that are not really facing in the right direction. Now climb the steepening face above using crimps, edges, and pockets that are inset into a smooth black veneer. Really neat route!

This fantastic corner was first climbed by my friend Nick making several ground up attempts using traditional gear. On his last attempt he fell and a cam poped. He got busy with life and unfortunately was not able to free this one. Now you can. Stick clip. You can start above the tree or for extra points use the short stout corner below the tree/belay. Climb a nice slab up to the dehidral. From here pretty casual climbing past a few bolts leads to a definite crux with some hard jams and powerful stemming. This eases to hand jams and the anchor. Very nice rock. 

Three fun and distinct differences sections.Climb a techy corner to a ledge. Get ready as this section is bouldery and pretty on once started. Fingery climbing up a flake leads to a hard to clip bolt, a dynamic move and ledge. A bit of balancy climbing zig-zags past two more bolts to the top. 

Losing a best friend and climbing partner is a difficult experience to say the least. Nick Benedix was a true mountain man with a glorious passion for life, wilderness and exploration. He didn't put up that many routes but they were always good and the joke was they had to pull through a roof of some kind. My climbing is now inspired by my lost friend...Long and varied this route has got it all! Start with a boulder problem, don't worry use the tree. Then right on to some slabbing, followed by a section of technical face climbing leading to a cool hold then a ramp and nice rest. Above this a large layback flake leads to a chimney, fixed quickdraw, and awkward rest. Now you are ready to tackle the roof above you. Dont forget to hand jam and good luck! When pulling the roof the rope can stick in a small crack (not the one you are climbing) so it's good to look down and make sure it's free as you mantle up. Enjoy the view. 

This may be Russell's only lead bolted "sport" climb. You may also find it R rated depending on your sensibilities. Just bring you lead game. Lucky for you your dog won't be chasing a bear away while you are bolting free on lead and your pal tied to you. Good times. It's a good idea to stick clip to start before climbing down from the belay to the corner that starts the route. Above the corner climb a slab past some well spaced bolts to the bottom of a blunt arete. Climb the arete keeping a cool head after the last clip before the anchors. I think this is a fine route and not the worst run out. Certainly a worthy adventure especially if adventure is your jam. 

A stunning and intimidating route out of a roof and up a steller exposed arete. This is a mega line and the first route Nick ever bolted. He really had an eye for a good rock climb, especially when it pulled a roof of some kind. Climb past 5ish bolts up a slab to a beautiful gym style underling just below the roof. Get into it and pull the roof with some difficulty and enjoy a little time on the balcony. The upper section is quite technical and airy before moving left and to jugs before the anchor. The 11+ rating is really kind of a guess. I dont believe this route has seen a third ascent...

A large cliff with some great climbing on very defined lines. The routes here are long and the cliffs position high on the hill make for an airy feel. A totally top notch crag.The is the main area that my buddy Nick and I put up a handful of lines here over the years before the latest wave of modern development.

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Location

Protection

Routes in The Balcony