Make some tricky initial moves in a left-facing corner past a bolt to gain the main crack. Patience placing gear will yield good protection. Climb the main crack (pin) to easier but unprotected climbing to the anchor. Var 1: 5.7 PG - Before the Taboo Crack - ride the lowest portion of the traversing flake into the crack as early as possible (possible ground fall) while staying above the lip of the roof and below the first bolt. Set seams with micros and cruise to the top. Var 2: PROJECT - Begin below the roof on shady flakes and crust with pebbles, one large pocket, to corner jug starting the Taboo Crack, pull roof with awkward feet, climb Taboo Crack to finish.

Taboo Crack

Slabby Slab Slab

The Dirty Contractor

The Dirty Carpenters Ghost Hands

Climb below roof system on R->L traversing dirty slab to block and crusty broken flake system with minimal protection. Find finger pockets and clamp the roof to slopping pull over roof into the left facing corner dyhedral of the Dirty Carpenter. Cruise up unprotected system to microcam protected face to pigtail bolt.

Nice, fairly clean slab up and left of the taboo crack face. Move up on small edges past two bolts into a low angled slab section. Move up into a wavy crack system, follow this to the anchors.

from first bolt of taboo traverse undercling to dihedral left facing corner system, reach face and trend right on tiny but solid feet to taboo crack pigtail anchor

The first section encountered on the lower cliff band eponymously named for the sole established route.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Taboo Crack