Waking Life is another favorite of mine on the wall. It has steep, technical crack climbing.

The first pitch is the crux. Begin clipping a bolt a bit off the deck and moving into a shallow corner. Move up and work your way up the steep, thin crack as you come to a large bulge. Work your way through, and crank through some tough jams to a rest. Traverse right and up to a belay.

The second pitch is fun, moderate climbing up a wandering crack that is mostly hands. Gain the steep headstone face at the top where you clip a bolt and make a few delicate exit moves to the top.

Waking Life

Lisenby-Zacher Especial

Frozen Will

Lost Vikings

Mindless Indulgence

The Space Between

Full Nelson

Bachelor Party

The Velvet Hammer

Modulation Crack

P1: climb cracks to step across onto flakes/pillar. Face climb past two bolts then into hand cracks to the belay, 100', 5.11-.

P2: ascend on perfect stone, climb flakes, crimps, and laybacks with tenuous footholds past 1 fixed nut and 2 bolts, then finish with 80' of moderate hand cracks to the summit, 5.12+.

This route is made challenging by the mass load of lichen that we cleaned off enroute. Sure enough, there is plenty more to clean. Follow up a tan face up a crack with features. The crux comes below a bulge and a splitter offwidth. Surpass this, and it's mellow climbing to the top of the pillar.

The route is one of the best that I have put up in the canyon. The first pitch had been done prior to my arrival, but the second pitch had remained un-climbed. The first pitch is short and leads you to a ledge where the second pitch begins.  This pitch is around 5.10. After a lot of cleaning, I added four bolts to the beginning 15-20 feet of pitch two where an acute corner with a thin seam starts the climb.  The second pitch is broken up with several great rests, so just when things seem to get desperate, full recovery can be had. The majority of the climb follows a great crack of all sizes that leads its way to 3/4 the height of the wall. From here, a slight traverse right past the steepest section of the climb provides one last crux before some easier climbing to the top.

Climb up the crack starting on the left side of the ledge formed by a large flake. It is perfect hands in clean rock with some fingers and a short wide section. Go through a bulge and past a roof created by a huge boulder. Trend right to finish on a crack right below rap bolts.

This is one of the first ones put up on this section of wall by me. It is a great variety show on quality rock. Start on a large sloping ledge. Some easy terrain past a few bolts leads you to a ledge where you have to make a delicate pull to gain the crack. From here, a steep sustain crack takes you to a nice resting ledge. Then thrust upwards into some full value 5.10 offwidth. Then follow some steep terrain finding rests here and there. The end can be a heart breaker as it is tough climbing past a few bolts to the top anchors.

This currently is the only moderate on the wall. It has a large chimney and offwidth crack system that keeps you guessing. When things start getting tough, look for exterior stemming and features on the outside to bypass any desperate thrutching. This is a good one to test your skills on. After topping out on a pinnacle, step across and climb a short crack system to the top of the cliff.

Pitch 1: 5.11, 50m.

Start by climbing around two ears, each with a bolt. Gain the dihedral and climb up past one bolt at the beginning, followed by lots of stemming, shallow flaring jams, and climbing past seams; sustained. End at the two bolt anchor.

This pitch has somewhat tricky pro.  Safe, but awkward to place, as there are few stances.

Pitch 2: 5.11+, 32m.

Begin with cruxy moves right off the belay.  Layback, chimney, and stem up the acute corner past several small roofs; bolt protected, crux.

At the last bolt step left around the corner and climb up to a stance. Move left into a crack and follow it until you can go straight up the same crack system; steep, dirty, and off size, or hand traverse left into a steep, clean, hand crack (recommended).

This is a continuous crack system that goes the height of the left side of Quarry Wall. It climbs ledge to ledge.

Pitch 1: from the ledge, climb some nebulous terrain until the obvious crack cuts up towards a large triangle ledge. This is a good warm-up for what's to come. 5.10, 60 feet, bolted anchor.

Pitch 2: set sail up the corner with fingers and stemming up past a few steep sections. Gain a good ledge on the right below a short roof. Do some intricate stemming and an arm bar to reach a positive hold. More 5.10 climbing leads to a last rest 20 feet below the obvious undercling crux. Motor up to the undercling, reach high, and place/clip a small nut before making some tough moves to regain the corner. From here, it's 5.10 to the top! 180 feet, 5.11+, bolted anchor.

P1. (5.7) The first pitch is just an approach pitch that can be bypassed by rapping onto the obvious ledge that is the same starting ledge for the crux pitch of

Frozen Will

. There is a single bolt for the belayer at the ledge.

P2. (5.11) Be sure to warm up before hopping on this thing. The beginning is stout and physical. Several no hands rests are had throughout the route. From the belay, bypass the obvious, shallow roof with a crack exiting right of it. A few feet above clip a bolt, and make a dainty traverse right into the main crack system. Begin up 40' of pure crack joy of mostly fingers, but every size is present. Make another traverse right into a second crack system and past a few thin, cruxy moves until you are 40' below the top. Clip the bolt, and pull one last difficult move until easy territory to the top anchors. This is a great route!

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Routes in Massey Wall