Unknown

Daddy's Midlife Crisis

Albino

Hands That Go Bump in the Night

Pet Memorial Services

Daddy's BMW

Daddy's Dream Seam

Start on the bolted arete to the right of Daddy's BMW and then go up and join Daddy's BMW at the ledge.

Shares anchor and last two bolts with Daddy's BMW. Some find it more puzzly than Daddy's BMW to the left, others don't. A good moderate lead for newer leaders.

Disclaimer:

I would be surprised if

nobody

has ever climbed this route before, but I cannot find it established online anywhere. I recommend a grade of 5.10c (if "Hand That Go Bump In The Night" is 5.10b, this is definitely more difficult).

Route:

Start on the corner of the arete. Follow the crack to the right, around the arete, onto the graffiti-buffed face and continue following the crack. When the crack ends, traverse left onto the moss-covered shelf and mantle to top out at the anchor. (See photo for details)

Interesting 5.10 climbing. Anchors are not on the face so you have to top out when leading. If you are the FA please leave a comment as it would be nice to add some clip in anchors on the face that would be harder for the local teenagers to mess with.

This route has been removed due to serious potential rockfall. It is advised not to climb left of Hands That Go Bump for this reason.

Climb starts between two aretes. Recommended beginner lead.

Shares anchors with “Daddy’s BMW” and “Daddy’s Midlife Crisis”. This is Toprope only for now as no bolts have been placed yet and it still needs a bit of cleaning. However, the holds are all there and the rock is mostly solid.

Start left of “Daddy’s BMW”. Mantle up the small painted slab onto the ledge to enter the seam. Stem your way up the seam using positive holds to the small roof/flake. Follow the finger crack on the right side of the flake and mantle the small roof. Grab the jug to reach the top of the flake. Use discreet holds on the mossy slab and mantle the bulge before topping out at the anchor on your right.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Roadside Rock