Begin under the roof, stand start using the slot crimp and a smaller crimp chunk. Immediately swing a toe hook out and over the lip.  

  Manage a hand out to the lip and swoop over the lip bulge to the ascending sloper ramp to aid in the mantle. Slab up to glory.

Unicorn Parade

Unicorn Farm

Walk around the left side of the boulder, to the left corner of the large roof, and find the nice low jug formed at the base of the roof.  

  Sit start at the base of the roof corner with a thin left hand sidepull and a right on the bigger corner jug. 

  Move up to the thin sidepull rail and out to the larger sidepull rail to the distant right to compress. 

  Make a difficult move above to the high crimp on the face and the pounce to the massive jug feature overhead. Top out direct.

This striking roof has a lot to offer. Unfortunately, on the kickboard base of the roof, Pat felt the need confess to the world by means of red spray paint that he loves Vikki (I do hope Vikki was smitten). Aside from the unfortunate permanence of Pat's heartfelt paint, this is indeed a fantastic boulder. This boulder touches the also great Shade Boulder which is to its right. Unicorn has a massive 12ft front roof and great climbing along its left face and arête.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Unicorn Roof