Start under the left side of the roof, and traverse right into the crack. Climb the crack to the jug on top. The initial moves are scrunched but make a fun transition into the crack. You could just stand start on the crack

Unknown Crack

The Saber

Chimney Fire Exit

Grinding on a Sick Rail

Ayerloom

Chimney Fire

Bear Hug

The Saber Sit

Start under the roof on the left side, and top out straight up.

Stand start on a good left pinch and a right triangular crimp. Heel hook, and cross to an arete pinch. Stand to a crimp ,and follow a ledge to an easy topout.  

 The sit adds a grade.

Sit start same as for Chimney Fire. Match up to the crimp rail, and continue up the face just inside the chimney on edges and crimps. This is essentially an easier exit to Chimney Fire.

On the middle face of the Chimney Boulder, stand start with a left-hand sidepull and a high right-hand flake with poor feet in the horizontal crack. Go straight up to a small crimp shelf (very sharp!!!), and go straight up for topout. This has a less-than-ideal landing but a good topout.This is a very unofficial grading on this one, would really like to get other people's opinions on it!

Climb a cruxy sit start using a left hand sidepull and a right hand, obvious, flat crimp. Work your way to the crimp rail just inside the chimney. From here, move right, exiting the chimney to the big flat holds. Another cruxish move leads to the mantel topout. This is a nice addition to its neighbor to the right.Additionally a direct stand start can be done using a high right hand gaston and a low left crimp. Climb directly straight up and mantle. Perhaps more enjoyable? Certainly more direct.

Start kneeling under the prow with left hand on an okay sloper and right on opposite side of prow on a three fingerish-sized, decent crimp. Place your feet anywhere and pull on. Go straight up and climb the prow on good holds.

This is the sit start to The Saber. I started on the triangular crack and actually sort of put my heels a bit higher than my hands, BUT I imagine there are better, less scrunchy ways of trying it. This adds a few moves to The Saber and may add a full grade.

This is another cluster of boulders and broken cliff band about 200 yards across power lines from trash compactor. Below the boulders is a big pond housing a beaver lodge that is protected habitat, so if you bring the pup, please be a responsible owner so as not to disrupt the beavers or to upset anyone that might be trying to enjoy the wildlife. Also, for the same reasons, go easy with tick marks please, since the boulders are right off the trail and tons of chalk might ruin someone else's time out there.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Chimney Boulders