Josh Larson cleaned and bouldered this problem in mid-2012. Steep crack system.

Ware is Wizard Werx

Bear Hug

Charlotte’s Web

Flying Carpet

Happy Endings

Broken Dreams

Areteish

Lee Stole My FA

Arrowhead

I Suck Epiphany

Avoid the Slime

Areteier

The green indicates start holds.

 The yellow indicates starting feet footholds.

 The blue indicates a jug.

 Start on the right arete of the boulder. Using a left sidepull about chest height and a small right hand crimp, pull onto the problem, and work your way up. The starting right hand crimp is about 3 fingers wide and feels much better when you start the problem than how it feels from the ground. Work your way up and to the left using whatever handholds and feet you find. The red indicates what I used. For shorter wingspan folk, you might find the move to the far left rail difficult, but there exists beta to do it!

Here is a video of the first few moves. It is very bad quality, and I did not get to finish it again on camera. I will re-upload a better quality video next time.

 My grading is based on a very limited experience outside bouldering in Lincoln Woods. Please share your opinions on the grade, and I'll be willing to change as people give their input!

Start "bear hugging" the problem with a hand on each arette on mediocre sidepulls and your feet on decent foot chips. Then throw your left foot or heel around arete, and slap your left hand up to a poor sloper. Then do the same with your right hand, and flounder your way up the topout. Throwing a foot on top sometimes helps. Note: the problem could be significantly harder if you are short, the "bear hug" start is pretty wide.

Charlotte’s Web is in front of the Rock House.

Climb the arete using two rock faces. Lean back, lock off your hands along the arete, and use the rock face adjacent for footing. It's slippery for your feet with approach shoes, but you get solid handholds. 

Climbing the arete, face, and slab only without using adjacent rock face for feet is “Ellie’s Walkabout,” V0-1+.

Traverse left starting at the obvious foot hold all the way until you can stand up right on the ledge. This is a good for a warm-up and technical footwork practice.

Start sitting in the middle of the lower block, move up and left to the big pocket, then move up right to mantel on the ledge, and climb the slab to topout.*Avoid using any part or the arete or crack left of the pocket.

Start standing on bad crimps (or a sloper if you want), move to a bad crimp, and move to a good crimp and easy topout. The line in the middle.

 This is a great climb for the strong crimper but the weak of heart.

Start almost sitting, and climb up using the arete...and a crimp to your right.

Sit start in the middle of the triangular overhanging face and climb up using a cool pocket, a spiky crimp, a thin vertical crack and holds out on the right arete if you want. Top out at the peak of the triangle.

This is an extremely crimpy problem. From a standing start, you begin with 2 chest level crimps and some small foot chips. The crux is being able to move yourself up to the obvious sloper on the right side of the wall. a dyno from the sloper to the top is the intended beta.

This climb follows a very steep and jagged crack from bottom to top. At the base of the climb, the ledge is wet and covered in moss, which gives the climb its name. After ascending the short verticel portion, there is a multi-move portion of almost complete overhang. You must follow the crack over the ledge, grasping at large but sharp jugs, and finish with a fairly sketchy, slabby, and high up topout.

Climb the short but sweet arete! Use only the arete.

 Beta (if you want): start standing at the obvious pinch just over 5 feet off the ground, use your hips, and balance as you cup the arete. The last move if you’re short is a dyno, and idk if you’re tall.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 3. Wizard's Cave