Nickle and Dime is a beautiful two pitch route located on the left side of the sport routes. This route can take off from different locations. The most common start is from the high ledge where Kinethesis departs. From this ledge the route follows the arete on the left end of the ledge up past four bolts to large ledge w/ two bolt chain anchors. The alternate start is a Trad start from the next ledge below Kinethesis. From this ledge follow a large handcrack 15 ft to the Kinethesis ledge and then depart along the usual arete.    Pitch two climbs up and left from the anchors along good edges. The climbing varies depending on your line. Traversing left and right around bolts usually offers easier climbing. Climb past 6 bolts along the face to the high crux and onto the two bolt chain anchors.

Nickel And Dime

Big Al's Supercrack

Trapped in the Creek

Fritz's Wing

Sheetz of Wrath

Wedding route

Drill Wavin' New Haven

Amalgamator

Kinesthesis

30 Seconds to All Night

That 70 Show

Monarch

West Rock Crack

Poison Ivy League

This route begins from the Nickel and Dime ledge and was created to provide a route to the base of the 420 wall (up and left) though it can also be done on it's own. Start on Nickel and Dime clipping first bolt and then immediately traverse left on the large foot rail. Once you get to the large right facing corner, work your way up the crack and two faces to the top, awkward and cruxy but well protected. From here you can exit left to the base of the 420 wall or, continue up and right on good holds (some could be loose), past the last bolt of the closed slab proj to bolted anchors with hooks.

Starting on the Kinethesis ledge, work the right facing corner to the dirty top. Down low the route takes micro gear (RP's, etc) and then has several good placements along the climb. Finish at the Nickle and Dime anchors  (70M required to link two pitches & be careful and KNOT YOUR ENDS!).

 Alt. Start: Start below the Kinethesis Ledge and climb the corner to the large hand crack leading to the Kinethesis Ledge.

Layback or jam through the first 20' of this beautiful #2-sized desert-like corner. Crux at 10', eases quickly above. When the corner tapers step left and lower off the slung juniper.

Start on the platform below the start of Trapped. Easy terrain leads to the start of an obvious awkward corner. Protection and climbing get better throughout. A few strenuous moves through a crack that wants to get rid of you put you on easy terrain. Move left across the pillar to the slung tree to lower.

 Ideally led and followed. Tough to safely clean. 

To the right of Drill Wavin' New Haven is a TR route. The anchors are located above the slab and I believe the TR is setup from rapping in but there may be other beta. 

  DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LEAD THIS ROUTE: LARGE LOOSE BLOCKS

P1: Climb up right facing corner up to the horizontal crack. Make couple difficult moves (crux) and continue via dike towards the juniper tree. Pass it and belay from next solid tree (5.8)   P2: Move left on the ledge under the blocky beginning. Pull over the blocks and through the small corner. Pass another tree on the right and continue climbing next two corners in the line. Finish up by the belay tree (5.6)

Start on the obvious clean and beautiful slanting arete. Carefully work your way up the face past four bolts to a two bolt anchor. It is possible to move onto the right side of the arete and work some jugs to make this thing more 5.9 ish.

This route begins at the base of the 420 wall and requires either rapping in from the top of the cliff or climbing up Monarch. 

     From the ledge, climb up the center of the slab along the small right facing corner to a bolt. Continue up to the next bolt and execute a reachy move to a solid edge. Mantle up and move left (bolt) into the larger right facing corner below the roof. Climb along good edges up and left past several bolts into the large overhanging flake. Pull up and clip the bolt at the lip of the roof and work your way up to the ledge and mantle to clip the final bolt. One last move to good holds out right and an easy finish to the anchors awaits.

Kinethesis starts on the comfy ledge between a large right facing corner and a beautiful arete about a 1/3rd of the way up the cliff. Scramble over several ledges to gain a grassy ledge below a small roof. One more ledge up and right is where this begins on a clean smooth face. From the ledge take off moving delicately and powerfully through a series of mantle moves past four bolts to a large ledge. Be careful there is a loose block just before the ledge that makes for a tempting hold. At the ledge step up and right to the next bolt then continue straight up to two more bolts to the lip below a small pine tree. Just left of the pine tree is a two bolt rap anchor.

This fine route has a defined crux early on gaining the main arete and then cruises up the arete, followed by a short traverse to the Kinesthesis anchors. Start on the larger grassy ledge below and right of the start for Kinesthesis. Work some easy moves up a flake past two bolts to the left side of the arete. From here make the 5.10 moves stepping out right onto the slab and using holds on the right side. Make a move to the obvious jug on the right side of the arete and continue up a move or two to a good stance to clip the 3rd bolt. Follow the left side arete up past five more bolts to top of the arete. Either traverse left along good holds/feet along the face 2 ft or so before the lip or traverse left along the lip for more open handed climbing.  

  CAUTION: There is a large loose block in the crack below the small pine tree. Do not disturb!

Passes by a known Peregrine Falcon nesting site. Please do not climb when closure is in effect.

That 70 Show starts on the left side of the large ledge with the Drill Wavin' New Haven Arete. Gaining this ledge is R from left ledge. If you blow the moves traversing onto this ledge you will take a bad fall. Starting in the crack, climb (and place gear) for 15 or so feet up to a bolt (5.8). Follow decent but thin edges up along the right face of the right facing corner for another 3 bolts. Continue on the face, working up and left past another 3 bolts to the anchor.70M ROPE REQUIRED! 

  KNOT YOUR ENDS, BELAYING, OR RAPPING! 

  RIGHT SIDE OF LEDGE IS 40m FROM ANCHOR - YOU WILL RAP OFF YOUR ROPE IF YOU ARE NOT CAREFUL

The finest legal crack in New Haven. Start on the deck and fire the crack (Ball Nuts/micro placements/stacked nutz) straight through to the top. When the crack fades work some moves over/up to the anchor. Originally, ATX Aid Crack.  

  Easier Variation: Known as the 10 Crack is the obvious beautiful crack that splits the large slab face to the right of That 70's Show. From the ledge, stand on the block to the left and work right into the crack several feet off the deck.

Corner with strikingly blank feet and mediocre gear. A bomber #3 placement at 10' prevents an R-rating. The climb becomes decreasingly featured throughout, with the crux at the top protected by a white lichen-covered 0.3 placement.

 Short and sour.

The main slabs located directly above the town baseball fields hosts some great long moderate West Rock routes with sights of New Haven and Long Island Sound in the distance. Many of the routes here are multi-pitch sport however there are several gear and mixed protection (gear and bolts) routes mixed in... Several of these routes REQUIRE 70M ropes and several routes are multi-pitch routes.Peregrine Falcons nest here approximately March to September every year. Check https://www.raggedmtn.org/blog for information on what routes are closed to climbing.

Description

Protection

Routes in Ball Field Slabs