Return of Sharkey takes an enjoyable line up the right hand buttress. Great climbing, protection, and position make this one not to be missed at the Park. Scramble up a ramp and into a short right facing corner. Finger sized gear can be placed here before stepping up and left to a stance about 15ft up on the original Sharkey. From this point move out right and climb beautiful rock past 3 moderately spaced bolts. Once on the arete rejoin Sharkey at the final hand crack or climb the left crack variation. 

Return of Sharkey

Ride the Snake

Puffin Express

Puppies n' Knapsacks

Chicken Dinner

Sharkey

Dickey's Eliminate

Stone Frogs Don't Eat

Apples and Regalia

Dickey's Notch

Ride the Turttle

Possom 20:13

Bear S**t Corner

There are any number of ways to start this, the driest probably being the best.  

  Face climb to the right of the gully/corner on the left side of the buttress. After reaching the top of the buttress climb a fist crack to its end. Either step left to lower or continue up a slab to the top and walk off to the climbers left.

Stat just downhill of Puffin. Climb through broken rock to a ledge below a nice low angle right facing corner. Climb this.Somehow missed during our initial time out here on a later trip Nick led this pleasant corner finding snake skins along the way. 

The quickest and easiest way to the top.  

  Kind of a choss pile with a couple of good moves along the way. Climb a right facing corner up past an overlap then up dirty ledges to the top. Belay from trees.

A great route showcasing typical climbing at the park. There are now two bolts replacing the piton and small cam at the crux if this route. Very well protected climbing the whole way.  Jam up an 8 foot perfect hand crack, swing over right and mantle to a ledge. Step up left towards a thin left leaning crack and carefully get in a piece of gear (I think a red c3 did the trick). Commit to the crack, clip a piton and move left on worsening holds until you're at a mono crimp. Another big move left finds juggy climbing back right up a crack to a bolted anchor. Lower off.Stepping into the crux crack can be a little spooky on this one but the holds are good to start and once the piton is clipped the crux is about as well protected as it gets, small falls.

A top rope route that weaves its way up the left side of the buttress using the arête, cracks and the face right of Sharkey.  

  Start to the left of the toe on the buttress. climb up to the arête  on its left side. Climb rightward then back left stepping over the arête and onto the face. A little face climbing leads the buttress's top. Step left over the fist crack on Sharkey to a hand crack leading to the trees. 

  Rap/Lower from trees.

Okay, yes this is quite a contrived route...Climbing up twin cracks is just great fun though if you can get over the urge to make easier moves on Dickey's proper.  

  From the left, step into the crack left of Dickey's Notch. With one foot and one hand in each crack climb past the ledge where the corners start crossing a pillar and ending up at the ledge above the Stone frogs corner. Instead of moving up look left climb a juggy wall to a stance again stepping left to the final crack on Ride the Turtle.

They do however leap from ledges with little provocation.  

  Start off a toe in the middle of the wall at the base of a splitter right slanting crack. Jam and layback up the crack then rock right to two stepped ledges before gaining an attractive corner. There are now two finishes after the layback corner. 1) move right around a tested but uneasy feeling block to the tree ledge and an easy corner leading to the top. 2) The now preferred finish, atop the corner climb the left face using quartz holds to a stance on the final crack of Ride the Turtle, climb the crack and lower from a bolted anchor.

But I thought Apples was a cat?Climb broken rock up to a ledge below a blunt arete. Climb the arete using a thin crack for pro. At about halfway is a technical and engaging crux section. Atop the arete step right across the face to the anchor on Puppies.Lower off

This route starts with a tough to sequence boulder problem then continues up a thin crack with kind of hard to find protection. It might be a good idea to swing over on top rope and check it out before giving it a go on lead. It is a fantastic lead when your ready though! A tough start leads to a nice horizontal hold and small nut placement. A few more moves and a green C4 can be jammed in the crack to your left. The climbing again gains steam (small cam placemats possible) leading to an exciting mantle below a corner. From here you'll have a nice perch to ponder the puzzle above.(The left side has better holds). The gear here is pretty small and you'll probably need a nut tool to clean out some placements. Above this move around a tree clip a nice bolt and pass one more difficult section of climbing to the top. Lower off bolts

Ride, ride, the turtle. This is a super cool rock climb with great moves, variety and a few cruxey sections.Start up a short but thuggish hand crack to a ledge in a corner that tapers out above. Climb the corner (bolt) to the top then use corner technique to make a step right gaining a sloping stance. Clip a bolt then make a thin cruxy traverse right then up a crack to the top.Lower from bolted anchor with biners.Originally led on all gear and a pin it was a very committing route. The addition of a couple of bolts make this a real fun route for anyone comfortable at the grade.

Tough compression/slabbing past the first bolt. Wierd finger jams and barn door type moves past the second bolt to a big jug. Once standing on the jug pleasant crack climbing leads to one more by and a step left to the anchor on Sharkey. 

A beautiful, striking right leaning corner and crack. Although the corner is only about 30 feet tall that's 30 feet of great climbing that's every bit of 5.8. 

  Climb the corner plugging in cams. Above run it out up easy ground to a tree and belay. 

  Either scramble back down to the starting alcove on from the right or walk off left back to the main wall.

Glacial Park is an absolute gem in a wonderful setting. Although this crag hasn't caught the attention of the masses those who have ventured out this way have been rewarded with some of the nicest climbing in the area. Beautiful fine grained schist rock is polished and striated with killer cracks and corners! The gear is generally good and there is a nice density of climbing. A nice place to spend a secluded day in the woods. From the top there are wonderful views from the Sandwich Range to the Franconia ridge and not the sight or sound of a single road.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Glacial Park