This route is described in the Jim Shaw "

Fraser Valley Climbs

" guidebook as ending on the overhanging opposite wall. If it is climbed in this above fashion, the route is 3 bolts tall ending on the overhanging opposite wall on 2 Mussy hooks. Rope drag appears to be high using these anchors.

We climbed the first 3 bolts as described above then moved slightly left connecting the the last bolt on

Scary

and using the 2 Mussy hooks on

Scary

as anchors for

Stone

making this option 4 bolts tall.

Details: this route is short and hard, and sharp holds protect the crux. Assume the stem is not part of the route and would downgrade it accordingly.

Stone

Bulges

Z-Crack

Scary

Happy

Smiley

Elliot

This starts off thin and slabby. There is a loose block around the 3rd bolt in a crack - there are no issues. Move right after the 3rd bolt. The climbing eases off at the 4th bolt and below the anchors.

This route is described in the Jim Shaw "

Fraser Valley Climbs

" guidebook as having an overhanging and boulder type start. The route has 4 total bolts plus 2 anchors.

Details:

This route is short and hard.

After clipping the 2nd bolts, there is a minor rest before heading into the corner.

The finish is still steep. Some crimping and stemming will get you to the anchors.

This gear route follows the z-shaped crack to a pair of quicklink + Mussy anchors at the top. The route is a good choice for practicing trad gear placement with lots of options for cams and nuts almost the entire route. The crack zig-zag also emphasizes the importance of extended draws without being so long as to make it critical. You get good hand holds and nice foot holds on solid rock with a 5.7 crux in the middle, but it is 5.easier everywhere else.

This starts off thin and slabby, climbing past 4 bolts.

This starts off thin and slabby and clips 4 bolts.

The initial moves are 5.7, and the climbing past the last 3 bolts are 5 easy.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Trail Creek Crag