I'm not sure if people know about this climb but its  fun and I figured I should post it. This climb is somewhat mossy and the handholds are somewhat difficult to find since this whole section of rock is a bit chunky. There is a roughly V0/V1 variation you can do if you topout after the first few moves on some holds that are usually pretty dirty.

 The climb traverses from right to left and stand starts on a two hand jug on the arete. Traverse left as you bump your way though several chunky and somewhat slopey handholds. The crux is probably near the end where feet become scarce.

Radical Erratic

Wonder Bread

Kook Left

Warmup Slab

Pump it up sit

Our Kung Fu Is Strong

O-Daddy Long Legs

The Illusion of Control

Tsunami Surfer

Frantic Searching

Cave Traverse

High Tide

Traverse

Tsunami

Quick Drop

Pulling Teeth

Shredder

Super Dough

Kook

Crow Bar/Class Dismissed

Frantic Hoarding

Slabby Problem

Pick Pocket

Slabby Problem Extension

Spooky Pockets

Pump it Up

This is a recently reopened line to the right of Kook. It apparently used to be called Pump's Crimp Problem which isn't a great name so I renamed it to this. Not sure if Pump is a person who got the FA?Stand start with your left hand on a slippery slopey crimp and your right hand on a good incut crimp. Cross into a small 2-3 finger crimp and continue up straight.I topped out to the right due to how dirty it was. After cleaning it will either top out straight up or still to the right.Despite the dirtiness of the top, this is one of the best climbs in Bolton. Super fun super solid crimp climb worth all 4 stars. More people need to get on this.It also has a sit start adding 1 very hard deadpoint move. This starts directly under the crimps on a very low crimp rail and blocky gaston. Put a heel out left and figure out how to pull into the deadpoint to the left starting crimp of the 7

Sit start low right and traverse into the arete with sweet bread loaf pinch.

Same starting hold as Kook, proceed left through edges and try to avoid dabbing.

Walk through the passage between boulders to the right of spook. Once you are through, you will see a small slab on your right with cleaned crimps. Easy climbing leads to a safe topout and easy downclimb, making this one of the areas best warmups.

Sit start under Pump it up with a left hand on an incut crimp rail and right hand on a slopey gaston and fire up to the left hand start of Pump it up. Hard two moves into the start holds. 

Talked to Pat today and got the real name for it! This used to be posted as "Skirt roof V9" he also said it was a 10 since he was able to finish Roof of Rumors before this.

 Starts down a hole under the skirt. Try to pull on the shelf as far to the right as you can get then either hit a crimp on the roof to the left or go straight for the nice slot hold on the lip. From here figure out how to use the edges and crimps on the face to climb up. Its super highball to finish on the face so its recommended to top out on the right over the slopey slab and it has gone like this.

Start almost lying down with a left hand on a slopey crimp with a weird thumb hole, a right hand on a sloper low down, and a toe hook on a sloper up right (see pictures). Slap up to the sloper where your toe hook is and figure out a way to get to the pinch rail right above the start. Set your feet and slap up to a slopey crimp on the slab above, without the big slot to the left. Then use some other crimps on the slab above to get above the lip and top out on the left slab

Starting on the two slot jug at the bottom lip of the boulder and going straight up the slab, toping out at the peak of the boulder.This is a variation on Our Kung Fu is Strong.Talked to Pat who said he is unsure when Kung Fu originally went if this variation had been done. Im proposing it on this page because to me it seems the most obvious line / purest route up the face.

This is the sit to Tsunami. Starting on the Low Tide/Pump it up sit start holds that is only really possible to do when there's no water under the boulder. Tsunami is probably V9 and this is solid V10. Low Tide is much harder and still hasn't been done

Sit start low left, make a big move out right toward a cool hold, tricky heel hooks get you to the top out on the right.

Start on the huge shelf hold to the right of spook. Match hands with a right heel, make your way left and top out on the top of Spook.

Tucked between Shredder and Pump It Up. Start with a right hand on the slopey crimp that's the left hand start for Pump It Up, left hand on the low incut rail you use for Pump It Up sit. Go left to a slopey intermediate hold and use that to stand up and bump to the nice incut crimp on Shredder. Get a bad right gaston (or skip) and from the double gaston position go up to the edge straight above you and finish on the jug to the left.

 Named because it should really go from one move lower but there is occasionally a large amount of water that pools under the boulder that makes the Pump It Up sit (and the lowest start for this) impossible. When the water or ice is gone you can fit your leg under the boulder which makes the starting position possible. Thus the sit start to this will be called Low Tide if it ever goes.

Not sure exactly which side this starts on but I think the right. Climb the overhanging traverse and when the holds run out get up the slab to top out. 

  Needs cleaning to top out.

This climb starts the same as High Tide except you cross to the left gaston crimp instead of bumping, you then top-out to the right

Start to the left of Pump It Up in the cave/tunnel on a huge juggy shelf. Deadpoint up into a nice slot hold and then either go out left then up or go straight for the jug on the top left. Needs a very large amount of cleaning to top out so I just drop off from the jug

Low sit start in the same area as Super Dough. Have your right hand on the peanut and left hand on a sloper under it. Use a good left foot under the low roof and a high right heel hook near your right hand and go left hand to a sloper and use a serious of bumps to gain a somewhat hidden crimp in a seam up high above the sloper. The crimp feels like you're pulling on some teeth. From here Bump out your right hand through some sidepulls and stand up to a slopey edge above the teeth and finish up the Wonderbread arete.

 I'd like to clean the top of this and give it a direct top out that doesn't link into the arete to separate the line more from Super Dough.

Start in the cave on the nice juggy shelf that Quick Drop starts on. Do the same first move with your left hand instead of your right and go around the corner on the right to a small super incut crimp. Put a foot on the shelf and reach up to a hold on the left above the cave then from here climb right into the the topout of Pump It Up using edges and slopers.

 A substantial amount of cleaning could let it top out direct but for now it goes right into Pump's topout.

Sit start very low left of the Wonderbread arete on a bulge like feature with your left hand on a nice peanut hold on the bulge and your right hand on an edge closer to the arete on the overhang. Heel hook near your left hand and power your right hand up to the low part of the arete. From here work your way into Wonderbread but from the left

One of the Bolton classics and one of the few clean climbs left.

Start on 2 diagonal crimps and do a hard right hand gaston move to another diagonal crimp. From here figure out how to get to the nice jug up and left. Careful with the dirty topout but its topoutable.

 There's a V8ish variation that starts here then climbs left into Pump It Up

The Frantic Searching roof. Start matched low left with a double undercling type thing. Powerful move out right to the bread loaf hold then get to the jug one level above it. From the jug toss a high heel up right and reach up to a terrible sloper with a tiny finger catch above the roof. Using this stab out left on the roof to a small incut sidepull/undercling. Bump into a quartz hold and finish on decent holds on the left arete.

Start standing on a very good foot in between the two ash trees (slightly closer to the one on lookers left) and you will find a few solid finger pads at head height to use for balance. Get a fairly high and low-profile high foot and stand up on it using a tiny quartz crimp with your other hand. Then the climb becomes more low angle and you smear your way to the top. A fun but short slab climb.

Sit start on a decent sloper at the lip with good feet. Reach up to a good hold and traverse right using hidden pockets until you can gain the slab to the right and top out.

Starts sitting to the left of the stand-start version on a crimp-jug side-pull and a small down-pulling crimp. Use a good right foot and a smeary left to bump up into cool smooth pocket features, then move right to join the stand start. You have great feet to get you there, but not many features to use as hands on the low angle slab. A fun route to practice your balance on and to make the stand start route just a little longer. 

Start with high right foot and left side pull. Stand up into sloppy quartz hold and use two good pockets to climb to the top. 

One of the most classic bouldering areas in Bolton. There are many many lines on these 2 adjacent boulders. It has recently gone through a revitalization and is clean and has seen a lot of love.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Kook Boulder