Climb the face to the right of the bolt line of

Crystal Method

and just left of the arete that forms the corner of

Angel Dust

. The crux and upper half is fully bolted.

The main page for PCP Pinnacle calls the start 5.7 R.... I think with a small rack of finger and tips size gear it's not too bad. Aim for a shallow, right-facing corner where a #0.5 is bomber. Above, some small gear can be equalized on suspect rock at a stance. Then, run it out on jugs to the super high first bolt.

Follow 5, maybe 6, bolts to the ledge with an anchor shared with

Crystal Method

. The crux is pretty damn thin, but IDK, it felt a little soft for the grade. I thought

Whiskey Dick

was harder.

Again, this is worth doing if your partner is working

Crystal Method

, but if you're short on time,

Angel Dust Arete

is a much better climb.

Ecstasy

Angel Dust

Crystal Method

Angel Duster (AKA Angel Dust Arete)

Start under a small roof. Look for a pin on the left after the third bolt.

Angel Dust is the splitter hand and finger crack that runs straight up the middle of PCP Pinnacle. Clearly visible in the photo as well as from the road, it is the most prominent feature on the wall. There are two ways to finish this climb. The splitter crack ends at a horizontal ledge about 25 feet from the summit. The standard and easier finish traverses left on this ledge about 15 feet and then goes up a delightful and well-protected, right-leaning hand crack. This way goes at solid 5.7. The direct and much more difficult finish goes virtually straight up the steep wall at the end of the splitter crack. This variation has little or no pro and is solid hard 5.10. It is easy to toprope but daring to lead. The crux of the regular route comes about halfway up at a rattly flake inside the crack. It is a thoughtful spot. Still the pro is mostly superb and the rock enjoyable.

This is a well worth it route. Together with the "

Mirror Crack

" on Rosy Lane Wall, these two routes well exemplify the unusual qualities of Taylor Canyon climbing.

If you liked

Cig Arete

, this rig climbs like the shadier, uglier sister route.

Climb a beguiling finger splitter on the right side of the face, pass some big, lichen-covered jugs, and clip a bolt, aiming for the arete. Place some decent but tricky pro, and be ready to commit to moves with gear below your feet.

From here, clip bolts the rest of the way along the arete, with multiple 11- cruxes. There's one last spot where a small piece takes some stress out of a minor runout.

This has lots of lichen, since it faces north, but it's clean where you need it, and it's a great, sustained, arete climb.

11c is the published grade, but it's maybe a little soft, definitely easier than

Whiskey Dick

,

Rogue Repeater

, or

Speaking in Tongues

- which are more the typical Taylor sandbags.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in PCP Pinnacle