This climb is a sweet moderate that includes two  finger cracks that parallel each other and split directions at the top. Straight up the right side crack is the preferred exit. This is a great beginner lead as it offers excellent gear placements.

Twin Cracks

Little Roof

Apeshit (aka Cavemantle)

This climb has a nice slick start consisting of a thin finger crack and some varnished foot placements that ascend leftward to a good underclinging finger crack which offers good gear placements to protect the crux moves. Then grab the sharp edge of a jugular shelf that is heel hooked and mantled to a bolt with no hanger, use a nut that can be a stopper cinched onto the bolt for pro, or better yet, use a bolt hanger and bring a nut that fits a 3/8 stud bolt. Don't forget to clean the hanger when you are done as it will most likely get stripped. After protecting above the cavemantle grab some round jugs to gain access into the upper handcrack portion of the climb which gobbles gear all the way to the top.

This is a good but slick handcrack that meanders up to a little roof and then exit right around the roof on bomber holds. The crux is at about 15 feet off the deck to easier climbing above.

The south side of the Y canyon has fewer climbs, but some are very good. This side of the canyon is shaded most of the time, so this is a great choice in the summer. It gets some sun on summer mornings. It's less convenient compared to the north side of the Y, since you don't hike past the top of the cliff on the approach. (To reach the clifftop to build or remove anchors, scramble up 3rd class ledges to the right of the rightmost route (Little Roof).

 Occasionally, the stream in this canyon can be flowing too high to cross safely.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Y - South Side