A fun route on fairly good rock with some neat positions.

Pitch 1:  locate a short face leading to a finger crack in a corner which then gives way to a fist crack through a short roof.  Climb a chimney slot to a face and belay around 150 feet up the route.  5.8.

Pitch 2:  Climb up a face to a ramp (5.8) to a thin crack with face moves.  A fun, exacting 150 foot pitch leads to a shallow ledge.

Pitch 3:  easy 5th and 4th class climbing leads to a neat shallow grassy ledge.

Pitch 4:  A short pitch of 4th class climb trending slightly towards the large, dark chimney cleft leads to the top of the ridge.

Legatee

Legacy

Legacy is a fantastic moderate route with three pitches of awesome ridge climbing. With a short (if bushwhacky approach) it is a very accessible alpine route. We missed the crux 5.7 pitch the guidebook describes, opting instead for the line of least resistance. I’ll describe our variation, although I would bet the actual route has better climbing.

P1: Head up easy cracks in the corner for about 30′, until it is possible to start traversing to the left. Continue nearly horizontal traversing until you reach a large ledge. Build a belay. (5.5, 160′)

P2 (Variation): Move the belay to the far left side of the ledge, then climb up the slab above to gain a gully. Belay on the left side, midway up, just before it gets steep. (5.5, 130′)

P3 (Variation): Continue up the gully, through licheny rock. Be careful as the gear is sparse. Once over loose rock at the top of the gully, traverse right on narrow, treed ledge. Pull onto a big ledge and build a belay just below the ridge line. (5.6 PG-13, 160′)

P4: Head up on to the ridge and scramble up it. Mostly 4th class, but a few technical moves here and there. Belay just before a notch. (5.5, 160′)

P5: Traverse the notch, climbing a beautiful finger crack up the slab on the far side. More 4th class leads to a walkable section just before the big notch. Drop off the ridge onto the climbers right and traverse a talus ledge till just before the notch. Belay here. (5.5, 160′)

P6: From the belay, down climb easy terrain into the notch. Move over to the left side and pull a few steep moves onto a platform. Stem between the block and main ridge feature until you can pull up onto the top. Braced belay. (5.5, 80′)

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Leggat Spire