Just like the route to the left, start out with a bouldery 5.11 crux bit followed by an engaging 5.11- vert wall. After the vertical section, the wall steepens after an obvious hueco. Work some hard moves as you enter the crux under the 3rd to last bolt. Sidepull and gastone crimps dominate the upper head wall. Endurance climbing with no rest for the last 3 bolts will get you to the run for the chains. Clips are committing as well as the climbing between them. Most of the bolts are over 10ft space with a 15ft run to the chains on 5.12 climbing. Falls are really clean, i was the test dummy!

The Empire Strikes Back

Return of the Jedi

A New Hope

Starts out with a hard 5.11+ boulder pull to gain access to the 5.10 slab. Getting the 4th bolt clipped is committing although easy if climbed proper. Climb to the 6 bolt as the climbing begins to build a pump. After a couple decent rest at the 2nd to last bolt, tackle the steep balancy and powerful headwall on marginal crimps.

As all the route on the trilogy wall, start out on an inviting delicate start for 15m before getting into the steep engauging climbing for the last 10m. The start is probably around 11+, but learns down fast. THe upper part is another beast. A body tension crux goes though a section that has no down pulling holds and pitiful foot holds. After the crux, fight a developing pump before it consumes you. 

3 beautiful 25-30m routes. All the first half of the routes are very approachable for the grade. 15 meters of moderate climbing leads to 10-12 meters of cruxy climbing on the steep upper headwall. The first half has great quality stone that is highly featured with thoughtful sequences. Enjoy the lower half before things turn on quickly. The upper headwall is steep, crimpy, balancy and powerful all in one! Climbers are going to have to bring a full set of skills to succeed on this wall. Oh, and did i forget to say things are a bit spaced! Theres some BIG whip potential on this wall.  

  The wall stays in the shade all day for most of the year. When the sun rises high in the summer, this wall gets morning sun till about 10am or 11am. Gets great exposer to wind, so its best to climb here is the late spring - early fall

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Trilogy Wall