Here's a tip: if something looks like a huge mound of poo, that's not a hold.

Start under a roof, the first bolt is hard to see from the ground.

Pull through big positive holds with good feet and then ask yourself "what IS that rock?Petrified wood?"

Cruise up the slab and stop to wonder "why didn't FA comfortize some of those holds?" You can say this aloud if you want.

Say hello to some hornets. Don't worry- they're not aggressive. Unless you do something stupid like smack at them with a hat.

Now you're at the overhanging part.

There is a huge scary looking skull face on the rock face. Reach up into the mouth and grab the lower incisor.

Pull on that tooth until you can plunge your hand through an eye socket to find good holds in a sinus cavity.

Next you'll be lamenting the fact that it ended too soon.

short, shitty and sharp

Stinger

Dead Finger

The Rubber Boa

The Rattler

Unknown 5.11d

Snaked

Rain Delay

Beeleave

Unknown

Prestidigitator

The Drone

Bushy Tailed Wood Rat

Tres Hermanos

The Rubber Boa is a gentle creature.

Choose from a wide selection of scoops, pockets, jug handles, cracks, and a guano mound which is solid enough to use as a hold. Try it.

Scramble up easy 5th class to a ledge and clip the first bolt. Continue up the face on rock a little steeper than vertical to the 2nd bolt. The angle eases a little for more cool pockets and edges to the chains.

Climb up onto the ledge from the ground and clip the first bolt. Using pockets of various sizes (including finger-killing-size) continue up the face. Clip the fourth bolt, figure out how to get past it, and then continue past the fifth bolt to the chains. Some enjoyable movement on this route, and some killer holds.

Such an amazing route! So overhanging but plenty of good holds!

After clipping bolt one and two, consider unclipping bolt one to reduce rope drag. Clip bolt three while climbing the

first roof

. Reach above

roof two

to clip bolts three and four (come back down for a no-hands rest if needed). For the full affect, motor through roof two and find good but hidden holds up the dihedral. Get over the shallow

roof three

to more good pockets, then past 2 more bolts to the chains. What a gas!!!

A fun route that I don't know the name of but feel it should be added into the system so people will try it.  Climb up to the low first bolt and do some fun pocket pulling to establish yourself on the slabby face. Edge up to the steep headwall and clip the highest bolt off the huge jug. Then comes the 11d section. Hit a shallow 2 finger pocket up left and a crimp right then throw to a good pocket up and left, then its over. Very strenuous. If you haven't been doing your 2 finger shallow pocket pullups you have no hope of making it through this section clean.

If you're old and fat or not very limber, you might want to stick clip the second bolt.

Climb through dihedral to ledge, reach high from hueco to clip the bolt in the roof from the ledge and go!

Scramble 10 feet up to a ledge and clip the first bolt. Look for a right hand side-pull to clip the second. Clip the third bolt from crimpers (crux), then find some pockets to get to the fourth bolt. Stand on top of the bulge to clip the chains.

Holy Cow what a route! Only possible if the bees have left...HA! Get it?! Ok...maybe not.

Starts just left of the mega project (now sent). And heads up nice big rails/jugs (some with guano close by) into a STEEP section of big holds that you have to commit to with nice dead-pointish moves.  Then use the BIG bee hole (if you dare) for your rest before heading into a final hard part (perhaps the crux) as suddenly the holds, while still good, get a lot smaller.

You can see most of the route in the beta photo of The Rattler. The bolts are obvious, to the left of the drawn in route.

Worked on this when some time ago and had to go back to get it but sooooo worth it. Thought this was one of the best 5.12 I had ever done or tried.

Like the 5.11d next to it, I am not aware of a name. It is listed on one of the photo's. The photo has it listed at 11c, but I feel like it goes around 11a. There isnt a bad hold on the route, but there is definitely some awesome movement that takes some commitment. Starts up the same face as the 11d but heads left when things get steep. After the big throw to the hole, its pretty easy to clip chains. Bring tape

An awesome route climbed by Dave Graham and Joe Kinder. The movement is amazing, super boulder. It starts with solid 5.12 climbing then goes into a 10 to 15 foot v9/10 boulder problem then finishes with probably 5.12 climbing for 5 or 6 moves. The rock is good but sharp. You will probably want tape. Supposedly when the first ascent was done the arête wasn't used and it was 13.d or 14.a but now it seems like the arête is used more commonly and seems to be 13.cish. A great route climbed by some legends. Its thought to have only around 10 ascents.

Climb up onto the ledge on the right side of the crag, clip the first bolt on the bulbous rock, and then climb up to the face above. Pull pockets and a couple of underclings until the last bolt; clip this, then head for the chains.

Steep climbing on big holds; pocket pulling with some sharp pockets, a couple of good jams, and a few loose holds.

The anchors are out of view until you pull over the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Drone Wall