This route can be done in three or four pitches. Traverse east on the ledge system that runs beneath the north face of the Pinnacle. The start of the route is an obvious, right-facing corner system near the east end of the ledge. The first piece of fixed gear is a long way up in the corner.

Pitch 1. Climb up into the corner, step left at the roof, and go up left to an eye-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2. Step left and go up a left-facing corner. At its top, go back to the right, and climb up a right-facing corner system to a belay anchor up and to the left.

Pitch 3. Meander up deteriorating rock, aiming for an obvious break in the big roof above. Belay when you run into an anchor or feel comfortable.

Pitch 4. This pitch can be combined with pitch 3. Head up the choss rock. When all seems lost, a fixed eye bolt will save the day. Delicately reach up into an solid undercling in the roof. Super good holds and fixed gear abound when you traverse to the right and reach over the roof. This section is very classic and on solid rock to boot.

Head up to the big ledge, sit down, and make a Spencer Tracy belay. Someone forgot to put any anchors here. Scramble over the top and down the back side.

Descend as described for the Pinnacle. See

Rock and Ice

#95 as a reference. I hope I got all the good parts in. Enjoy!

The Army Route

Balance

Tiger Snap?

Kendlee

Full Monty

The Men Arete

Cheyenne

Right-Facing Corner

Steep Side

Corrugation Corner

The Shitter

Chivalry

Dragnet

The Men Arete is the bolted route immediately left of

The Army Route

. Locate the first bolt with the homemade red angle hanger just above a horizontal outcrop - it's a ways off the deck, but the climbing is easy. Continue past a cold shut and two more bolts to lower angle terrain. The route begins to steepen again at the fifth bolt (missing hanger - either sling it with a stopper or climb past it). There is also an ancient ring piton just to the left of the bolt - it's possible to clip it, but it probably wouldn't hold much of a fall. Continue past two more bolts to the anchors (crux). It is a good climb on solid rock.

Rappel with a single rope (50m would work).

Balance is located at the highest point of the trail that goes along the base of the Pinnacle. There are also some nice rocks to sit on just out from the base of the cliff. Locate an upside-down crescent that has 3 bolts rising above it to the anchors. Just to the left is a crack with a piton. To the right is a very steep, but short 3 bolt route that has two orange anchors on the slab next to the second bolt on Balance. Balance is primarily a lower angled slab.

With a reach, grab good incuts on the crescent, and pull up onto it. Clip the first bolt, and head right to get up on the slab. Follow the next two bolts to a slightly runout section further up the slab, then shift left and climb the well-protected, vertical wall on the climber's left which takes you to a brief break and then finishes on a final vertical section ending at a pair of welded coldshuts.

Eds.

the FAs felt this route was 5.9 if you follow the bolts.

Tiger Snap is located just to the left of

Balance

, at the highest point of the trail that goes along the base of the Pinnacle.  Remember to look for nice rocks to sit on.

Tiger Snap ascends a steep, right-facing dihedral with generously spaced bolts.  There is potential for a ground fall between the second and third bolts.  While the climbing is never desperate, overall it has a much more sustained nature than other routes at North Cheyenne Canyon.  For some reason all the holds seem to face the wrong way.

After managing to get on the thing, carefully climb up the steep, right facing wall of the dihedral.  The anchors are out of view and are found to the left of the top of the dihedral.  Enjoy.

This is a fun, moderate route with new bolts. It starts out as mostly a face climb then climbs up a short right-facing dihedral at the top. Getting "over" the corner of the dihedral is probably the crux, but it's easier than it looks. It is well worth the climb if you enjoy moderate sport climbs.

This is a fantastic climb just right of

The Army Route

. It follows the line of bolts through two roofs to the anchor. It has two distinct crux sections around the roofs with an interesting rest at the first. This is definitely my favorite climb on The Pinnacle and features mostly solid rock.

Cheyenne is basically the [second] sport route you will encounter as you are walking uphill from Creekside Wall towards the Pinnacle area. Look up at the wall just after climbing over some big, exposed tree roots, and where you have reached a small clearing in the bushes. You should see at least 3 blots ranging upwards on the wall.

Dont let the distance to the first bolt discourage you, as most of the opening holds are pretty big; just go for it and leave the stick clip at home. Forage upwards, seeking to find some grasp for the fingers; think resting on your feet, eh? At the third bolt, make a devious move to the right and cop a good rest on a ledge. After regaining your composure, continue upwards as the character of the route changes. What was devious and cunning now becomes dynamic and juggy. A wonderful finish up a small headwall will lead towards some anchors that are strangely juxtaposed to the right of the last bolt, but what thet heck? Bring 8 quickdraws and you should be fine.  Enjoy.

This is a nice, right-facing corner/crack with good jams and laybacks.  The crux is getting off the ground and may feel a little spicy for the novice trad leader, as any protection for these moves would probably not help.  It is best to just stand up and start protecting once established in the crack above.

If you can pull the first two bolts, you'll get the rest of the route.

This route is located at the far end of the ledge system that runs beneath the north face of the Pinnacle.  It goes up an obvious arete that is a few feet left of the Army Route corner system. The start has some friable rock, but the climbing quickly becomes very good.  The crux is looking for tricky holds while trying to pull a bulge and switch side of the arete at the same time.  Enjoy.

This is the very short sport climb just to the right of

Balance

. Strenuous moves on small holds take you up and right through an overhang. I am unsure of the history.

Chivalry is a good route that is just to the right of the

The Shitter

or two routes to the right of

Balance

. Look for a line of hangers snaking up the face, just at the apex of where the trail to the Pinnacle scrambles across a narrow and exposed ledge. The route gets a PG-13 rating cuz you wouldnt want to blow the first clip'. Well, no one should consider using a stick clip; just figure out how to do the move. Once the first bolt is clipped, launch up into a difficult mantle that makes for the mental crux of the route. Afterwards regain your composure on the face, and delicately ascend past 4 or so more bolts to a set of anchors. Enjoy!

This is an excellent sport climb with high quality rock, sequential and interesting cruxes, and good protection.  There are three cruxes which all felt like at least 5.10+, and they all come below the first anchor on the climb.  The true crux is probably the first move, and is a little intimidating since you're so close to the ground, but the bolt is well-placed.  The upper section above the first anchor is fun and airy, and I recommend climbing the whole thing in one long pitch (at least the first time you do it).

Description

Protection

Routes in The Pinnacle