A great area testpiece with multiple cruxes. Originally bolted by Steve Teufert, this route long went without a proper anchor until I attained his permission in 2015 to add the SS glue-ins and chains that now top the route. This route can be sandy if it hasn't had traffic, but worth the effort to clean it up. The redpoint crux comes after a no-hands rest on a ledge. It can either be done as a dyno to a quintessential Elwha fossil-bomb the size of a butt cheek or statically with some finesse.

Leave it to Cleaver

Flakes

Slappin Skeeters alternate start AKA piton Route

Sweet Jam

Gomer's Epic

Buzz Away AKA Hollywood Dyno

San Ber'dino

A Walk in the Field

Panasonic

Prememorial Mikey Cooter Headbanger Route

Jason aka Proon aka Reciprocity

Tweener

Slappin Skeeters

Earth and Sky

Penguins in Bondage

Tender Hearts Break Easy AKA Broken Hearts are for Assholes

The Trench

Project

Get A Handle On It

Big Leg Emma

Project: Prodigal Daughter

The V

One Shot Deal

It Goes

Mooshki

The Breeze

Empty Space

All-View Motel

Dangerous Kitchen

Was a project started in the winter 2015/16 ascending the obvious blunt prow in the middle of the wall. This amazing route climbs through some of the funnest features the Elwha has to offer: edges, popcorn nubbins, flakes and jugs. If you can climb the grade and can handle the pump, this is a must do. Two no-hands rests slightly spoil the route and ease the grade. Regardless, other visiting climbers have declared it the king line on the wall. Who am I to disagree? :)

I haven't climbed this because in years past it was sooo dirty. Recently cleaned up by local climber and developer, Dennis (he also did all the rock work at the base of the routes).

The direct line up Skeeters. This climb used to utilize two rusty old pitons (removed). Fun movement with several variations possible on TR.

Climb around the corner from Skeeters and Buzz Away in a little alcove. Climb up and left through a series of blocks to a sandy ledge. Climb above and left from the ledge to he anchors above the Pizza Pie ledge...a little spicy for 5.9!

A low crux above a large ledge leads to large holds and an upper crux just before the chains. Don't blow the 3rd clip or you might hit the ledge! The rarely climbed second pitch is all kinds of dirty, scruffy and loose.

Climb the line of bolts to the right of Slappin' Skeeters. Finish up and right or run it out and climb to the anchors of Skeeters. The crux is down low between the first and second bolt through some small crimps and pinches. Then either climb from good rails through more crimps or dyno to the gunsight-looking jugs (fun).

Rebolted with SS glue-ins July, 2018

Awesome steep climbing through ledges, roofs and pockets. The crux involves a short boulder problem between the first and second bolt solved either with a long, lunging deadpoint or a wild dyno. Sustained pumpiness continues above. You may consider stick clipping the first bolt.

Awkward climbing through the lower slab leads to enjoyable vertical climbing on great rock. If only the upper section was longer!

This climb used to include a small dyno off of the clipping hold for the first bolt...until I broke the hold. Now either do a huge dyno out right off of a two-handed jug or use an intricate sequence straight up. Either way, the grade hasn't really changed and the climb remains super fun.

Somewhat awkward climbing up and left through good holds to large, stand-up ledge above.

Tricky and pumpy climbing up to a large block followed by an intense boulder problem involving a small left crimp and slopey gastons and side pulls all on steeply over hanging rock. The difficulty eases after grabbing a pistol-grip hold and throwing a heel up by your hands but steepens and remains pumpy through the finish. So good! The original line increased in grade from around .12a and changed significantly since the original first ascent after many large holds broke off.

Fairly contrived, this route climbs between Gomer's and Panasonic. It is possible to climb between the two using mostly independent holds and clipping one added bolt. Otherwise, clip the bolts for Panasonic to your right as you climb.

This route has a lower and an upper anchor, the lower one most commonly climbed to. The bottom part of the route also often remains dry when it rains whereas the upper slab get drenched. This area has been the first outdoor climbing experience for many peninsula climbers, it is easy but may be reachy for shorter people and kids. The climb initially climbs up and right, eventually traversing right under a small roof then heading up to the first anchor. Climb through a small slot up and left of the first anchor then follow the bolts up the slab then overhanging terrain to a ledge and the upper anchor to climber's left above your head as you stand.

Rebolted with SS glue-ins March 2018.

Great climbing sewed up with bolts. Easy jug haul to either a gnarly crimp move or a big deadpoint followed by sustained climbing to the anchor.

Rebolted with SS glue-ins 2018.

Poor anchor position no longer an issue since the addition of some long SS chains and SS rap rings. Crux at the roof. Rebolted with SS glue-ins June 2016. Intermediate anchor added (with permission from first ascensionist, Steve Teufert) just past the roof to add a nice moderate (5.7/8ish) option for beginning climbers.

This is a technical and pumpy route that will keep you guessing until the end. The physical crux is through the dihedral, but the climbing becomes less obvious above...good luck with onsighting this one!

Climb the easy, juggy slab up and left to a steep section culminating at a small roof. The crux is transitioning into the left-facing open book. Slot-climb to a ledge with the first anchor. Either belay a second or continue (must have at least a 60M rope) to the second set of chains up under a large roof. The climbing above is less difficult but gets less traffic and accumulates more sand.

Rebolted to the top with SS glue-ins 2018.

Climb the obvious arête to the right of San Ber'dino utilizing some of the holds low on San Ber'dino. Chains around the arête to the right.

Fun climbing through blocks at the start to a lieback flake. Upper ledges can be sandy, especially the finishing ledge with the anchors. Currently shares the anchor with the climb to he right so both routes can be climbed off of one rope with a directional.

The pitch above the block at the top of the Breeze...never actually climbed it

Climb just right of Leave it to Cleaver. Unfinished with 10+ year-old draws hanging on it and a stuck removable bolt on the slab. In need of cleaning.

Admittedly, not one of my favorite routes because I hurt my shoulder on it. That said, many locals are captivated by it. The lower crux is now protected by a long cable draw and involves getting up into the "V" of the climb. Once there, you can easily stem up to the upper steep section. Chains above.

Rebolted with SS Glue ins July, 2018

This climb is somewhat squeezed in between Earth and Sky and Jason/Reciprocity. Use the same start as Earth and Sky, clipping the first two bolts then traverse right. The crux comes after clipping the chain draw below a left facing corner/flake. Fun and can be pumpy. Finishes on the ledge above.

Rebolted with SS glue-ins 2018.

One of the best climbs on the wall! Skip the low mechanical bolt and instead ascend to the right of the first glue-in to a no-hands on a shelf. Climb though a series of ledges to a good shake before launching into a sequence dependent, techy crux. Good edges then lead to a rest a the roof. Climb boldly through the roof and a short runout then to the right of the tree. Now finishes on its own independent anchor (formerly finished on the anchor for the Breeze).

Climb between the Breeze and It Goes to below a small roof then dyno to a good ledge above. Technical climbing, slopers and crimps to another small roof and a no-hands rest. The crux is climbing through the next roof, then climb the finish of either the Breeze or It Goes.

Climb the obvious leftward leading line through a roof on steep sidepulls and gastons. Take a no-hands rest then climb back right to a huge detachted block with a tree growing out of the base then climb to the top of the block to the anchor.

According to the first ascentionist, Tyler Spires, the route originally topped out the wall up and left of the existing anchor through a notch and finished among the trees. A later party decided to cut out the top portion and place the anchor in the existing location then added and extension above (Big Leg Emma). Although the new anchor location is more practical in many respects and is considered the route's anchor by the current community, the final bolts still exist up and left and you can top out the cliff (not recommended due to loose rock, dirt and erosion concerns). PLEASE BE SURE NO ONE IS BELOW YOU IF YOU DECIDE TO TOP OUT THIS ROUTE!

The "a" in the grade could stand for awkward. Despite that, this route is touted by many as a classic of the area with odd, one-of-a-kind movement through often sandy ledges.

Haven't actually climbed this one or seen anyone on it. Consequently, it's pretty scruffy

Description

Protection

Routes in The Elwhall