Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route)

Blue Steel Throbber

Toxic Masculinity

Fear of Flying

The Glass I ( Pitch 1 )

Nuclear Erection

Shrimp Cocktail

The Womb

Whitney's Excellent Route

Safari Arete (extension)

The Sperm

Creatures of Waste

Waste Not, Want Not

Safari Jive Double Direct

Cornflake Crack

Safari Jive

Invisible Airwaves Direct

Pooter the Poacher

Deep Cycle

Scott Fischer Memorial

Unknown (just left of Safari Jive)

Bombelay

The Guillotine

The Glass Menagerie

The Seal

Reign of Fire

Captain Kangaroo

Southern Hospitality Var.

Extra Crimpy Chicken

Off the Wall

Kahntian Ethics

Invisible Airwaves

Glass Eye

Killer Whales

Carolina Hog Farm

Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig

Safari Jive Direct

Delapidated

Ride the Lightning

Waverly Waster

As of today this is the north face of LGR’s newest complete route going to to the top of the main wall. An interesting line through one of the wildest sections on the wall done by a couple of the south’s most prolific aid climbers. These guys have already put some serious work in and have been climbing on this wall since the hay day.

Pitch 1 Climb Waste Not Want  Not to gain the Waste Ledge. Yell “waste” loud AF 5.10 C1 or 5.12

Pitch 2 From the last bolt on waste not want (the directional bolt) angle right and up aiming for a corner which is the end of the first pitch of Rowans Route. Hit the corner and climb the ledge right to the anchors. This is The Pirate Pitch so bring a couple hooks and keep em with you for the rest of the route. A3

Pitch 3 Finally all those Cotillion classes you took will come in handy. Wipe the sardine chunks off your mustache, holster your pistol, and put that spliff out. This is the Gentleman’s Pitch where you will climb on rivets, heads, and hooks with 2 bolts thrown in the mix. Journey left off the ledge (right is RR) climbing through a blocky section on mainly small heads then into the radically steep wave above. It’s best to skip the first belay you get to but if you are fixin and firing be mindful as a 60m could prob stretch you to the ground from the next one up but you might not get the rope back when you come off the rap. A 70m works fine from the above station though. “A0+“ ;)

Pitch 4 This is the crux pitch of the route. The Soy Boy Headwall. Leave the belay on heads and rurps to gain The Scythe. Be careful transferring to this feature as there is a loose flake that blends in on the wall that would most likely leave you with a bleeding belayer or worse if knocked off. Climb the scythe to its apex and transfer back onto a string of heads and hooks with a couple rivets thrown in the mix. A3+

Pitch 5 Exit the belay left and ease across the sloping ledge to gain the beautiful seam/crack that is the end of Brain Wall. Climb this to the top using small heads, units, hooks, and more eventually exiting the seam on hooks and escaping to a lone bolt belay. Another anchor can be made in a crack with large cams and the bolt can back it all up. From there escape to the woods out left. A3

Either hike off or go down a rappel that you already have done or know. Not the place for adventure rappelling.

Pitch 1: Begin below a small right facing corner left of deep cycle. Climb slab to gain this corner and then trend right on thin seams to a two bolt anchor underneath a small roof. A2

Pitch 2: Pitches 1&2 can (and should) be linked and makes for one long super fun lead. Aid up the thin arching crack on heads, iron and cams. When it fades move through eyebrows to gain the 2 bolt anchor. A3

Pitch 3: Climb straight off the belay and move through heads, bat hooks, and cams on horizontals. Belay on bolts underneath a large bulge that is part of the huge horizontal roof you can see from the parking lot above and left of the peregrine roof. A3

Pitch 4: Climb left off the belay using a large expando flake to gain the first head at the bottom of the seam. Be careful with cams and over nailing. If this flake blows you will take a nasty fall. Climb up the seam as it grows and follow this groove system bouncing around to find suitable protection. Eventually you will move left out of the groove and enter the crux section on the face using small rotten heads, rurps and bat hooks. Eventually mantle out of your ladder leaving it hanging on a bat hook to gain a ledge. Traverse right to an anchor with one old bolt, one new SS bolt, and a SS rivet A4 This is one of my favorite western aid pitches at the glass.

Pitch 5: Make moves straight up off the belay trending left on shallow dirty ramps. Eventually you will get some gear under the roofs. Pull the roof and scramble up more dirty rock to the top 5.8

This route can be rapped but if there are concerns you should walk or rap in your usual fashion assuming this isn’t your first route on the dark side of LGR.

An easily underestimated route. There are two variations, either starting left (better protected) or right (harder). Both are worth while but you will understand the name if you climb either. The entire route climbs two giant and precariously stacked boulders. The one below the anchors will give you a chuckle or fill your trousers.

Starts with a low angle hand crack and then climbs a face through small roofs. The climbing is techy and fun with a crazy span move for the crux. A must do for any North Side enthusiast.

One of the best hard free lines continues to the top after the first pitch at 5.13 but I have not climbed it yet and do not post about a route I have not free climbed.

climbing.com/news/major-new…

A brilliant and direct line on perfect stone. Nuclear Erection is a masterpiece in tenuous and technical climbing. Although rated 12d, you may find it more difficult and not as straightforward as some of the 13a pitches on the North Side.

The Selected Climbs in NC guidebook breaks this into 2 pitches.....utilizing a hanging gear belay halfway up. It's worth noting however that Shull and the other folks that have sent this route, linked both pitches. The guidebook also calls Pitch 1 12b and Pitch 2 12d....although I find that the crux is around bolts 4 & 5 on P1.

I believe that this route has only seen 3 free ascents to date, and maybe only 1 proper red-point.

The first 3 bolts involve fun and athletic moves that dance around the arete. Get to a stance on the face, and get ready for a good stretch of hard climbing. Bolts, pins, and cams in horizontals will get you to another shake/rest at a bomber hand crack below the upper bulges above.

The upper part of the route is steeper and bouldery....although there are some rest stances to be had along the way. Expect long reaches to poor slopers, high stepping, and wild undercling sequences. The boulder problem before the anchor might just be your redpoint crux. You can rappel from here with a single 70m rope, it just reaches the ground/slab.

Begins just right of Killer Whales in a dihedral with cool but protection-less 5.10 moves up to a bolt 35 feet up. To pull the crux at the roof, its best to move left into the Killer Whales Corner, plug gear, then lunge for a larger hold above the roof out and right. You would likely bypass the second bolt if you do this. The climbing in the 2nd bolt area felt harder than Killer Whales (11a)...maybe a hold broke or maybe I missed something.

The best things in life require a little work, like getting born.  If you've found yourself drooling over the flawless 5.10 dihedral pictured on the cover of Shull's Southeastern Rock, it's time to put in a little grunt work and escape the Womb.  A mandatory stop on the southeastern climber's granite training circuit.

P1: A 5.9 hand crack angles up and right to the route's namesake pod in a left-facing corner after 165'.  Belay from bolts.  Or break it up and belay from a ledge after 65 feet.

P2: Crux. To gain the corner, you must squirm to the top of the pod and convert from squeeze-chimney technique to laybacking the left-facing corner above.  Fortunately, most of the conversion takes place while toproping from excellent gear.  Kicking your belayer in the head at least once is de rigeur; twice, and you're buying the beer.  Once established in the corner, stem and layback your way to glory for 50 feet or so and belay on a ledge from gear.

P3: Brows to the trees, 5.7.

Climb the varied right facing corner to a series of tiered overlaps. A technical crux leads to pumpy climbing finishing at a two bolt anchor.

Don't know if this was ever climbed in the past but all evidence indicates that it was not... who knows for sure? It was cleaned up and climbed recently. It is a fun moderate pitch that is worth climbing and is a great way to extend the crux pitch of "Safari" to the top of the buttress (about 175' long).

Climb the first 2 pitches of either "Safari Jive" or "Cornflake Crack" to the large ledge. If climbing Safari Jive, it is a natural continuation of pitch 2. Just don't stop and belay at the usual anchor, continue to top.

Instead of climbing the 3rd pitch of Cornflake, climb the arete and face just to the left. Start on the flake above the Safari Jive rap anchor and sling the tree for pro. Step left to lieback the arete, then continue up the cool arete and face. Keep your eyes peeled for gear in the 'brows that will require some longs slings to prevent rope drag. Belay at the large dead hemlock tree/2 bolt rap station.

This is the obvious left-to-right-angling crack on the slabby left end of the North Face.  A cross between classic Looking Glass eyebrow-wandering and the more strenuous crack climbs to the right.

Begin by climbing up to, and then through, the fallopian chimney that marks the start.  Thinking that this squeezer is 5.9 will only get you in trouble elsewhere.  5.8, 80'.

P2: 80 feet of right-leaning crack ends at a pair of bolts.  This and the first pitch are easily combined; 5.9.

P3: Inobvious moves in the vicinity of a short vertical crack (5.9+) lead to easier ground up and left.  Belay in a horizontal crack. 100'

P4: Standard 'Fields of Lichen Growing Wild'; eyebrow version. 5.7, 100'.

The 1st pitch is steep and fun with ample pro, and most climbers stop there.  This pitch climbs like a sport route with gear and stays dry in the rain.

P1, either start on a small slab ramp or uphill on a ledge system that leads to the flake midway up the climb.  From the direct start, pull some thin moves to gain large ledge.  Pull a small roof to gain the flake ramp.  Follow the flake ramp to a blocky section with a bolt.  Watch for loose rock here.  Clip the bolt and move to the short finger crack.  From the finger crack move back to the steep flake and crank to the anchor. 5.10c

P2, Climb up and left through a blank face clipping two bolts to the base of a thin seam.  Follow the seam to an anchor. A3

P3, Climb up to a dirty water groove to the bolted anchor. A2+

P4, Finish by climbing straight up on Diamonds in the Muff or move left to Wranglin' Horses and Hogs.

P2-P4 descriptions from NC Selected Climbs

This is an excellent slabby face climb which features thin liebacking, crimping, and just the right amount of protection for it to be cool without being too dangerous. The crux is inches before the ledge and some people do it as a dynamic lunge for the top and others do it statically.  The route stays drier in rain than most of the other routes on the north side.

This great alternative to the original pitch adds mutiple 5.11 sequences and when combined with the upper pitch makes for a 170 ft pumpfest.  Start left of the tree that is leaning against the wall. Move generally up and right over small and medium gear to a bolt. Fire past the bolt and move into the bulge with a crack going through it. The original direct(FA Kris Kline)came in from the right and pulled this same bulge. Crank this crack/bulge to join back into the original line. Belay here or continue to the top for the enduro finish.

Is this the best crack climb in the state, or just on the Glass?  First freed by Henry Barber on one of his burning-off-the-locals tours in the '70s, this one remains an enduring classic.  Whether you, too, will endure remains to be seen.

Also known as a good place to learn to aid climb, in the same way the Louvre is known as a good place to read.

P1: Climb up a couple body lengths to a short undercling roof.  Plug some gear, take a deep breath, and scurry across to solid fingerlocks around the corner.  Layback up this on more locks to a rest, then surmount a series of well-protected boulder problems until a tricky step right gains a belay stance. 5.11a, 80'.

P2: Crane your neck upward and suss out the corner as it leans dramatically rightward overhead.  Although the corner itself is disturbingly blank, a finger-sized crack in the left wall saves the day.  Crank and stem your way upward with good gear until the corner kicks back and opens up to accept fingers, widening to off-hands under a 1' overlap. A desperate 'rest' stance may remind you of endless trials on unrelenting Valley cracks-- you might be able to crank off that layback, you might fall trying, but you sure as hell can't stay here for long!  Dig deep and fire for the hand jams leading to a widening flake and the best belay ledge on the Glass, at least when it's dry.  Most people rap from here.  5.11a, 100'

P3: Greenish flakes contiue to the top, 5.10b, 60'.

Pitch 1: This is a great 5.8 warmup or option for gumbier climbers that you drag over to the N Face. It features a nice tips splitter on a slab. Many folks climb only the first pitch and belay off a dying tree with webbing around it. This probably needs bolts (heaven forbid). Those hollow aluminum rap rings are for single use only and should not be part of a permanent, heavily used belay station. Follow this link to learn more:

climbaz.com/service/rapring…

If you are going to belay off this tree, use your own gear and the last person should donate a couple biners and rap.EDIT: New rap station placed by Jeep up and left 10 feet past the tree.

Pitch 2: It looks fantastic from the ground, and is one of the few true splitters at the Glass...at least that's how it looks. Closer inspection reveals a constricting crack with a lip on it that is awkward and painful to jam with moss and mud in the back of it. Yeehaw! If doing the 2nd pitch, traverse right after the tree (a little spicey) then up the first bulge to belay at a sloping stance with good gear. The crux is liebacking or jamming over a bulge about 20' above the belay. Continue to rap from two bolts about 70' above the belay. The entire route is very well protected. Take two ropes to rap.

The crux is low but protected by a bolt ( stick clip recommended). Press and stem through a dihedral up to a gastone, then make a committing move to a great ledge. Continue up Invisible Airwaves Proper. This is an amazing line that really requires some grit.

This is a long and very involved climb.  There are many thought provoking moves and a few butt-clenchers for good measure.  If you like friction climbing and hard eye-brows this is for you.  This is also one of the first climbs to dry on the left side of the North Face.

Start in a flared hand crack in a left facing shallow dihedral.  Move up this moderate crack to its top and traverse left to a very short right facing dihedral.  Step up and move right for about 25' on a good ledge to the base of a series of bulges (double ropes are great here).  Pull through about three bulges using big eyebrows and lots of sloped knobs.  At the final ledge before the bolt, move back left almost directly below the first bolt.  Get good gear here and make a committing move to a good stance to clip the first bolt.  The next section is sustained technical friction.  Follow the line of bolts and plug a few pieces in between until you reach the fourth bolt.  From the fourth bolt move up and left to a faint gray streak with great edges.  Plug a few more pieces and bust into the Sperm's crack right before the anchors on the Sperm's second pitch.  Shake those legs out whenever you can!

A new extension has been added to this 20 year old route.  This climb has been thoroughly scrubbed.  Most bolts have been replaced, and it is ready for the North Side climbing season.

Easy climbing on good holds over a small hollow flake with okay gear gets you up to the first bolt.  Pull over a small roof up to the 3rd bolt where you traverse low to the base of a small left facing corner.  Clipping the 4th bolt is delicate. Laybacking up the corner past another bolt to a slanting crack is the crux. This is where the original route moved up and right onto the rounded face above. Instead, make a big move (2nd crux) left to a great undercling them up on amazing holds into the bigger left facing corner which takes great gear and is fairly sustained up to a horizontal and stance out right at the end of the corner.  Continue up the vertical face past amazing holds and a 00 cam to the anchor.

Very fun route if you're up for it

P-1 Head up and out an arching right facing corner past a fixed pin to another corner system. Climb up passing a bolt to a section of hooking below a short roof. Climb up and over the roof on rivets past a final short section to a belay.

P-2 (Synapse Ramp and Slot of Delight) I felt this was the money pitch on the route. Start of the belay past some heads and rivets to gain the ramp. Climb the ramp on big beaks to a past a rivet to the base of the slot. Gain the slot and free/aid your way up to a fixed belay.

P-3 (The Movie Screen and Navel) Climb up off the belay on rivets, circleheads and bathooks to the base of the navel. Climb up and out following rivets and heads to a belay above the roof.

P-4 Navigate your way up the face with a few rivets and lots of circleheads. Climb up past a pair of rivets to a short leftward traverse. Hook your way across the creaky flake to gain the Autobahn Crack. Belay on .75-3" gear where the crack gets horizontal.

P-5 Climb up to a rivet and traverse left of bathooks to a left facing corner. Aid your way up until the crack ends and free climb to the top. (Recommended that you break this pitch up and belay just before the crack ends)

This has likely been TRd many times (that’s what we did) and would be a heady lead. Now that the bolted anchor resides atop P1 of Safari Jive, this is a logical complimentary line.  If anyone has heard of a name or history, feel free to update.  A lead would involve committing  moves with some ankle biting potential.  Cool moves throughout, regardless.

This is a great granite slab route with multiple, interesting cruxes.  The route links discontinuous features, so requires some good route finding skills if there is no chalk.  Begin with liebacking up some flakes to the first bolt and the first crux; pulling over a short roof (harder for short folks...you can place a TCU up high in the corner to the left before you pull the roof).  Next do some powerful liebacks up to the next bolt (crux 2), place a tcu or nut then use jugs to mantel up onto a large flake below the slab.  Chalk up for about 20 minutes while you psyche up, then crank some seriously thin crimpers to the left, gunning for a series of rails that lead to the next bolt (crux 3).  You'll have to stand on your feet.  Once you reach the 2nd bolt on the slab, you're home free.  A couple good rests can be had off to the right in some loose blocks.  A single 60m rope will get you down.  The start is mossy and needs a wire brush badly.  The upper half of the route is much cleaner.

This is quite a varied route that has recently been extended all the way to the peregrine roof. I re-configured it into 2 pitches to prevent rope drag. It also makes P-1 doable for anyone scared by the guillotine flake above.

P-1

Climb the short corner to a bolt out right. Continue up and right through funky corners to a thin face. Bolts and small cams protect the face to a hard mantel at the 5th bolt. A new belay was added at the 6th bolt location under the guillotine flake to break the route into 2 pitches.

P-2

From here, move up the face to the giant guillotine flake and get gear behind it on the right side (T.S. was gracious enough to test this cam with a 30 footer). Move out right and through the roof which is protected by a bolt (newly placed to reduce rope drag on Captain K.). Climb the corner past a bolt to another bolt at the end of the corner. From here the route continues up an excellent thin face on small crimps. Some weaving back and forth will make this easier but it's still quite thin. There are options for several small cams (#0-#1 tcu) on the face to supplement the bolts. Belay on bolts at the Peregrine roof/ledge.

You can rap with one 70m, which will just barely get you down. Otherwise swing left to the P-1 anchors.

This is the finest multipitch free-climb of its grade in the Southeast. If you want sustained climbing with big air and on perfect granite, this is the route for you. The Glass Menagerie is the obvious overhanging line up the center of the North Face of Looking Glass. It is equally good as an aid climb, as it is a free climb. Its cruxes are well protected and the rock is almost always stellar. Please be courteous to other parties if you are trying to work out the free moves. This route gets plenty of traffic and you will likely be sharing the route with other climbers if you try it during peak season.

Pitch 1: (5.11c or 5.8 C1)

Start climbing up the easy face towards the obvious shallow right facing corner. You will eventually be faced with some 5.11 moves on great rock with mostly bolts for pro. You will then encounter a funky steep section that is protected with some pretty rusty bolts and sort of rotten granite. This is short lived and eventually you will traverse out far right on a ledge system (5.8? rotten) that will take you to a bolted belay. Two nice bolts and an angle for the belay. If you are hauling make sure you put your haulbag in the proper location for takeoff on the deck.

Pitch 2: (5.12+ or C1)

This is one fine pitch of climbing. Start cranking hard moves right off the belay eventually scoring a nice kneebar rest under a shallow roof. Get ready for some thin face. Climb out past the roof and up past several bolts onto the beautiful face and end up finishing by traversing onto the exposed face placing a few cams to gain a nice little ledge belay below a flaring corner with a splitter crack in the back. Two bomber bolts will make your belay.

Pitch 3: (5.11a or C1)

After a little rest, rack up with some cams and stoppers for this pitch. You will have a hard time with this one if you don't like rattly fingers. Climb a short crack in a left facing corner with great pro to a decent ledge with at least two bomber bolts for your anchor.

Pitch 4: (5.13 or C2)

This is the money pitch. Get amped right off the bat because you will be loving the climbing here. Make some face moves off the belay. Then break out left through the improbable looking roof. You will encounter jugs, laybacks, and crimps out of this masterpiece. Keep cool for the first thirty feet off the belay. There is big air with bolts for pro and only 5.12 moves till you reach the lip of the roof. It suits the route that the hardest move is at the steepest part of the whole wall. Try and get a breather before you pull the crux. There are good bolts in between the bad ones for the whole roof. Once at the lip, pull a pretty dang hard boulder problem (V6?) and gain a thin lichen covered face. This face is about 5.10+, but it only has two bolts for pro. They are painted black so if you don't see them just keep lookin. Once you've pulled through the face you will find a two bolt belay for your anchor.

Pitch 5: 5.10+ PG 13

This pitch is only part of the free route. The aid line went up and left out of the roof, while the free variation goes up straight past the two bolts described in the previous pitch. Down climb down and left off the belay with only one bolt for pro. You may be able to get some small wires or aliens in as well. You will be angling down and left at about 7 o'clock off the belay. There was a fixed runner off the bolt when we were up there. This pitch will be sort of scary for the leader but terrifying for the second, as he will actually be doing the lead climbing. You will encounter a 2-bolt belay about twenty feet above the lip of the roof proper here.

Pitch 6: (5.10c or C2)

As Mike says below, you can link pitch 5 and 6  and save your second from doing the heinous down climb of pitch five with a semi-top rope. Either way you do it you will climb a splitter hand crack up and eventually gain a fixed nut anchor at a little roof. Traverse out left a few feet to regain the crack (crux 11.c?). Climb the hand crack that will turn into a reasonable off width that overhangs slightly and ends with a slabby right leaning finish to gain yet another two bolt anchor.

Pitch 7: (5.9+ or 5.8, C1)

Climb up off the belay pulling through some thin hands past a bulge and then on to finish the crack up on a slab. You will eventually run out of crack and slab climb up to the top on easy terrain which can be wet if it has rained recently.

I hope this topo information is helpful to all that use this site. Remember, this is how we did it and you may do it differently so you may disagree with my beta.

The route takes the beautiful arching crack just around the corner from Cornflake crack on the North Face. The arching crack ranges from 5.9 fingers at the bottom to an offwidth through the top of the arch over to the anchors. As I recall, the gear is excellent and there are plenty of stems on the lower part of the route. The crux is a strenous move or two through the offwidth ending in a lovely thin traverse to the anchors. The route continues as an aid climb for a couple of additional pitches.

Pumpy and kinda awkward gear protected climbing right off the belay moving right through overlaps. The first of 3 bolts is very hard to hang on RP as it was bolted for aids. A few deep tugs bring you to a good horizontal rest before a fierce and crimpy crux though the flaring crack. More pumpy gear protected climbing with good whip potential brings you to the anchors of the open book.

This route combines a lot of different styles in one long pitch to the  Peregrine roof, and it's all free at only 5.11. The climbing up high (and out of sight from ground) is excellent and makes this route very worthwhile.

Start as far right as you can go before heading up the hill/gully.

Climb a short section of dirty rock to a bolt. Moderate moves up and slightly right get you to a moderate face with great hidden gear. Climb the face to merge directly into the left-facing corner of "Chieftans". Follow this cool, albeit dirty and awkward corner up to a roof (strenuous here). "Chieftans" moves left along flakes, but you'll want to pull straight through roof and into the hanging corner. Clip a bolt above the roof (new) before coming out of the chimney. Also, be sure to sling your last couple of pieces in the chimney long.

Once in the hanging corner,  climb past another bolt to gain the very techy face above. The face is protected by 4 more bolts and two small cams (#0-1 TCU). Follow amazing crimps past 4 more bolts and 2 small cams (#0 to 1 TCU) to a bolted belay at the Peregrine Roof.

Bring extra slings for the lower half of the route.

Rap with one

70m rope

but watch ends. Or rap down and left to Guillotine anchors.

This is a variation that climbs into p-3 of the Glass Menagerie. THIN nailing and natural hooking characterize this line. Cool natural features and only two rivets make this a worthy endeavor if you have already climbed the classics.

Or should it be Extra-Extra Crimpy Chicken? A sustained adventure in technical face climbing nirvana.

Climb past two bolts to reach a gear pod. Now, summon the crimp gods and begin the adventure. Crimp and pimp, up the delicious face past a number of bolts to a great jug. Plug in more small gear and fire out the last few hard moves to reach a welcome and timely double bolt anchor.

Start in a right facing corner. Power lay back up to a bolt on the slab.  Climb hard, technical slab out left to a second right facing corner. Finish at two bolt anchor.

The free version to the first pitch of Howling Kahn. Wonderful and engaging movement culminating in a fantastic gear protected crux. An incredible find, particularly amazing it lay dormant despite being the plumb line one rappels from the anchors of Whitney's!

Great free climbing followed by some classic nailing. The free crux is the thin traverse under the detached block. Careful with your pro here!

Start up the shallow blocky dihedral to the left of "Waste Not Want Not."  There is a 5.12a direct start that goes up the obvious dehidral. Traverse right on thin horizontal (crux) to good ledge. Rest, then blast the lay back to a great ledge. Start nailing from here.

An excellent route stacked with high quality, sustained, and challenging pitches, more interesting and probably more difficult than the Glass Menagerie.  A good strategy is to haul a ledge to the hanging belay at the top of the second pitch (leave it here as you can collect it rappelling the route on the descent).  Thanks to Dan Caldwell for having the vision and equipping the route. More info on the FA in this article:

climbing.com/news/major-new…

Pitch 1: (5.11a)  See description for the Glass I (first pitch):

mountainproject.com/v/the-g…

Pitch 2: (5.12d) Gain a flake that traverses left, then up, then back left.  This pitch is relatively short but packs a lot of moves into the boulder problem crux, involving tenuous underclings, small feet, and big moves, finishing with a jug over the lip

Gear: smallest C3/X4 to #2 C4

Pitch 3: (5.13a) Step up into the gaping maw of the huge flake above your head and undercling/layback this thing to where it goes vertical.  Clip a bolt on the flake and continue the strenuous layback up the flake till it terminates where it is finally narrow enough to place a cam.  Make a big reach into a horizontal in the face, place gear, and continue through pumpy face face moves, more gear and finally a bolt.  The crux is above, made more difficult by the sustained face climbing below.

Leave the bolt and climb through slopers, thin crimps, underclings, and high steps, typical of the Looking Glass style, but tilted back more than usual.  After one more bolt and gear you reach the anchors.

Gear: smallest X4/C3 to #3 C4. 3 bolts. A #6 C4 is nice right above the belay, but not necessary.

Pitch 4: (5.12a) This pitch is one of the best at the Glass.  Leave the belay and pull a roof with a bolt at your waist.  Continue through a series of flaring crack and facey/stem moves past gear and more bolts until you can traverse left into a nice crack protected by gear.  After some very nice crack climbing, there is a final mantel crux to gain the belay ledge.

Gear: blue TCU to #1 C4. 7 bolts.  Extras in the 0.5 C4 size are useful.

Pitch 5: (5.10)  A long pitch involving a wide crack, face climbing, and some bolts....To be honest, I have not climbed this one, so good luck.

Gear: full rack, at least 2 bolts, maybe more.

Start below 25' corner.  Make some technical moves to get to the corner.  Climb the corner to a small roof.  Move out left and over the roof to gain the bolted slab.  Climb thin edges to the Seal's anchors.  Very exciting route and can be TR'ed after having led the Seal.

This is a rather visionary line considering it was established in 1985. Great free climbing, fun aid, and very few holes placed in the rock. Maybe the fewest of NF LGR aid routes? When this was established there were no micro cams to bring you security on the upper pitches .Old school hard aid tactics got them up this route. It’s much more tame with the tools we have today.

Pitch 1: Climb up right facing corner traversing under the roof and then back up on a short flake system to a slab past two bolts. Then continue following the corner system right and upwards to a sloping ledge where you will find one SS bolt and a couple others that are old but good shape. This pitch is super fun mixture of free and clean. Cam hooks make it happen. 100’ 5.10 C1

Pitch 2: The sport climbing of A4. Climb through an eternal string of wires equalizing many various sized circle heads with one bolt in the middle. Eventually eye brows open back up and you will place cams for a bit. You can belay just above and right of the small roof or continue up 25’ to a smaller set of eyebrows that will take good gear. 150’ A4

Pitch 3: Continue clean aiding up eyebrows above belay as they grow substantially eventually gaining a right leaning crack then jump out of your aiders and scramble to the top. 60’ C1/A1

Rap Grand slam of sheep or down the twisted laurel gulley

This stout pitch might make you pucker up.  Climb past scant but good pro to gain the right facing crescent feature. Balance up this using as much friction as possible to a bolt.  Crank a hard move at the bolt to another bolt to gain a patina 5.11 face.  Head up this passing petzl self drives to a two bolt anchor.

P1: 5.11c Starting in a often dirty right facing dihedral  climb the finger crack through a notch and up to a jug. Cut left into an eyebrow and mantle up onto the  ledge. Move left to a bomber eyebrow. Climb interesting slab placing small gear before clipping a bolt and entering the crux. Continue climbing through two bulges split by a crack of varying size (fingers - thin hands) and belay at a natural gear anchor.

P2: Climb P2 of Safari jive

Fun little Pull off the ground to get you onto a ledge with good pro. Head up to bolts and then link up with the last bit of the traverse of the seal.

An obscure classic left of Extra Crimpy Chicken.

Climb easy terrain to a bolt and then get charged up for action.  Pass a small right facing corner (rps for pro) to weird rock at a stance.  Pop in a #3 Camalot and embark on small edges up a bolted face to a unique move at the 4th bolt.  Climb small dihedrals to a two bolt anchor.

This is a fantastic face route climbing a clean white face on perfect rock with athletic moves.  It follows the natural features, so tends to wander a bit.  There is a tough spot in the first two bolts then a good shake where you can place a small tcu before a deceiving move left.  Get a real good shake at a circlehead (can place a yellow TCU here as well), then bust straight right campusing on half-pad crimps.  The crux may be clipping the last bolt...maybe you should skip it??

Description

Routes in North Side