Fire up the splitter finger crack.  Great locks and smearing takes you to the roof where you make an easy but exposed feeling traverse to the anchor.

Spoon

Ripple

This starts on steep juggy holds, then it gets serious.  After getting established on route, get ready to smear, sidepull, and balance up the crack/seam on little nothings. I found the crux to be where the crack disappears and you go just left of the seam on a heinous face.  Hand and foot holds are more like friction pads. From what I found to be the crux, there is no gear of any kind.  If you are not solid at the grade, I would climb

Spoon

and TR this one.  But it's soooo good.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hell's Gate