A fun, tricky route that makes you think in a few spots. A bit chossier than the other routes on this wall; you might want to tap on some of the jugs before yarding on them.

Start up on thin edges, sidepulls, and whatever else you can find through a slight bulge. Occasionally wonder why they put all the holds on upside down. The rock changes a bit as you get higher and you'll find some of the holds right-side-up, and an occasional jug.

Near the top is a small roof that requires a bit of thought, and little bit of balancy trickery to see it through.

Unknown

Cranial Bypass

Cranial Impact

Time Crunch

Child's Play

Blood on the Rocks

Clip the first 3 bolts of

Cranial Impact

then keep going straight up. Sustained climbing but the crux comes at the small roof at the top. Go right over the roof to keep it easy.

Start with

Cranial Bypass

and move left after the third bolt. The climb moves upward in a leftward way. The last 2 bolts is the crux on crimpers and small feet. This climb has some very good sidepulls and underclings.

Unknown bolted route not previously listed in mopro or the ruckman guide to my knowledge next to child’s play. If anyone has more info regarding this route please post it. Crux is probably getting to the 2nd bolt but the rest isn’t as easy as it looks.

A fun climb using crimps and good feet on positive edges with an occasional sidepull and gaston thrown in. The route is partially shaded by evergreens in the afternoon.

One of AF Canyon's easier routes in a beautiful location. This route is the second route from the left (north) of Juniper Wall. The route is partially shaded by evergreens in the afternoon.

The climbing is small positive edges and a few pockets. The start is thin; the crux, such as it is, is a small bulge about half way up.

It is one of the few AF routes that can be easily top roped by reaching the anchor from the top. The anchor is reached by scrambling around the north end of Juniper Wall (easy 3rd class).

There is a juniper "tree" (bush, really) about 10 feet back from the edge that can be used to secure yourself while setting up a top rope (I used it; braver souls might skip it).

Climb up a broken series of flakes, blocks, and cracks on sharp jugs, sidepulls, and raspy handjams. Perhaps the route name comes from the jams, in which I left a little bit of skin.

The psychological crux is definitely between the last bolt and the chains when you must venture right, away from the jugs and from the cracks onto the face, with a potentially damaging fall beneath you. It may be the technical crux as well, although my partner thought a bit between the third and fourth bolts was harder (but I dont think he used any jams).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Juniper Wall