Great exposure! First pitch is about 160 or 170 feet of full value climbing, and includes the crux sequences. Second pitch is about 40 feet of quality 5.8 climbing on bomber rock and ends at your choice of two anchors. The higher one offers a pretty decent belay stance.

 This is the first route you see as you make your way up to the spire. It starts at the very base of the spire on the East side as you hike up from the pullout. See photos for info.

 Do as a lead/follow. I have been told that it can be done in a single pitch on a 70 meter rope, with the second following through. We did it on a 60, and used the mid point anchor. Bring an extra rope to rappel from two that are tied together. The rappel drops you off of the north side of the spire, about 50 feet downhill of Lichen Adventure.

 This route will be used in the future to access other portions of the spire and to start installing more routes.

The Long Way Up

Lichen Adventure

TR #2

Sport Route #2

Offwidth Project

Pocket Rocket

New She-riffs In Town

Milani's slab

T-Rex Don't Trad

Low angle slabby highball. There are 3 or 4 similar lines.

Really great climb with awesome exposure! The lichen will clean up with more regular ascents.

Face climbing on brilliantly patina-ed rock that is broken up with good rests.

 You can set up a TR from a very adventurous scramble/climb up the back left of the formation, that is accessed up the first slot to the right of "The Toprope route". Reaching down to the anchors could be very deadly without setting some pro up above and rapping into it. I hope to retro bolt this in the future to make it safer.

Original name unknown.

 Well protected face climbing on brilliantly patina-ed rock that is broken up with good rests.

 You can set up a TR from a very adventurous scramble/climb up the back left of the formation, that is accessed up the first slot to the right of "The Toprope route". Reaching down to the anchors could be very deadly without setting some pro up above and rapping into it. I hope to retro bolt this in the future to make it safer. For now I just recommend leading it.

I have no idea of the grade as this is still a project and MP made me put a star rating/grade to upload it.

 Climb the steep and flaring offwidth on the underside of the T-Rex (giant crack on the downhill side.) looks like it would get easier the higher you go up.

 Send it and tell us your grade and rating. looks absolutely heinous.

Toprope anchors that can be accessed from a difficult 4th class scramble up the shoulder to the left of the route. See pictures for details.

 Multiple options for lines. -Middle is probably technical 5.7 - this follows the obvious seam straight up. -Right is 5.8+ -Left is 5.10a/b but on worse quality rock and starts with some tough moves using a high undercling and bad feet.

This route climbs up the far right side of the wall, beginning on the right arete. Pull a small roof at the last bolt before an easy runout to bolted anchors.

5.8+ offwidth. Mellow as offwidths go, but with a few spicy moves to keep it interesting. Very different in style than the other routes in the area.

The best climbing in the Ruidoso area. About 1 hour north of town, find an unexpected crag on a large granite spire with a remote atmosphere. Currently there are 7 sets of anchors, including several sport lines and a few trad lines.

 While there certainly is potential for more routes, don't expect to get in a lot of volume at this time, but come check out the area for some unique climbing in a remote setting. Local climbers hope to establish more routes in the coming years.

 Please stay on trails where they exist and practice leave no trace.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Capitan Gap