Midway you will find a dilemma, pro or hold, you decide. Of course, there is smaller pro instead.

Profect Dilemma

Fanboy

Replicant Crack

Always Forward

Spooling Voodoo

Finger of Fate

Third Shift

Orange Crack

Try It Out

C Shift

We stemmed the start and then it was a leaning wide (#4-5 camalot) crack from wide hands to hand stacks. Face holds made it easier. It awaits a clean ascent  on lead.

It's a low angle hand crack, perfect for practice. Gets to the top of the Profect Dilemma anchors (great descent too).

Above the roof the crack thins to tips and it eases up at the finish. Stem your way below the roof for an easy start.

This is the face right of Finger of Fate. The hardest part of the route isn't the crux, it's clipping the second bolt off thin holds. I recommend a stick clip but Brent just fired it. Thin edges force the climber to find the right path.

Conceivably try this one on a very cold morning with fingers taped and new shoe rubber...   and lots of chalk?Mount thin face by stepping off large boulder and climb past two bolts. From second flexy clip, transition face into right-angling seam that slightly widens to fingers and then eventually peters out. At the dwindle, ascend thin face between crack systems and then do a balancy traverse right into the large prominent groove on the southwest face of the dome. It's easy climbing to the end of the dihedral. There's two more bolts angling left on the final upper face. A good pro belay at the top of the groove is possible if one decides to split the climb into two pitches.

The start is best to the left of first bolt then up near the end is the thinnest section. Good rock and thin edges with plenty of bolts.

The meat of the first pitch is near the beginning. Wide crack protected in back and climbed easily on the outside.

The first ten feet can be avoided by standing on the flake or you can make it much harder. The start is overhung and the crux. The top half is fairly easy.

I’m looking for hardcore guys that mean it and want to do it. Try it out!

This lonely dome complex has a striking dihedral on the west side (seen as you approach). Overhung on the south side for futuristic projects. On the east side of the south face are some other big cracks.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in John Rae Dome