A boulder problem start with small feet and a grunty exit gives way to the finest techy, powerful 5.12 climbing American Fork has to offer. This thing is full value power endurance.

Get your fingers ready to crank off of small crimps and amazing two finger pockets. Expect delicate footwork and a high pump factor, given that there aren't many great rests. The crux is smack dab in the middle of the route where the prow is at its steepest. After that, 2 bolts of easy slab take you to the chains.

Bamboo

Tuna Melt

Gator Bait

Charlie Don't Surf

Motu

Cinnamon Bay

Unknown 2

Daiquiri Ice

Unknown Dihedral

Unknown 3

I Can't Explain

Margarita

Tropical Depression

Ting

Razor Clam

Unknown 1

Easter Island

Screaming Lobsters

Blue Typhoon

Sea Cliff

High Tide

Lion Fish

Kahlua

Sea Tomato

Green Violetear

Tang

Pina Colada

Dark Rum

Oysters Rockefeller

Alcyone

Unknown power crimps

Drop Anchor

Burly start on undercut rock to awkward, narrow ledge, followed by a short dihedral to a larger ledge. From the ledge a tricky move or two with a two-finger pocket leads to liebacking and stemming with a bit of hand jamming thrown in.

Falling while clipping the 3rd bolt above the ledge (6th bolt overall) will guarantee a hard hit onto the ledge.

Positive edges and pockets to a small roof with a tricky move or two to get over.

A bit tricky to the first bolt followed by pockets and edges to the second bolt. A bit run out to the third using good holds but long reaches (don't blow the third clip). Less-than-totally-positive edges then lead up and to the chains.

A bouldery route, with excellent moves and bomber rock.   Starts on positive pockets and small feet.  Crux is exiting the undercling at the 3rd bolt.   This route stays dry when all the others are wet up here.

Step up on good feet to a disconcertingly thin and flexible flake just before the first bolt. Continue up through a bulge using underclings and sidepulls, with a few pockets thrown in to make it interesting.

Positive edges await after the crux with easier climbing to the chains.

Has the same hard start as Bamboo. Then some great climbing through pods.

Still chossy, sort of a dihedral with a bit of an arete on one side. Watch out for the small tree stump that nearly took out my manhood when a rock broke!

Follow the first two bolts from the line to the left, and then make a slightly unnerving traverse right to the third bolt (don't fall). Use pockets and edges to make it through the deceptive thinness to the anchors.

One of two routes at the crag that have rose moves! Start on pockets and bust straight into the crux boulder problem, stab to a two finger pocket, rose move to another two finger pocket, and make another stab move! After that it's fun pocket climbing to a red point crux up high!

This is a great climb with unique movement.  The climbing builds in intensity with the crux being the point where the wall starts to decrease in steepness.  Fun pockets and crimps.

Enjoyable climbing in a corner with pockets and stemming. Big sidepulls and occasional crack features lead up the corner weakness with a slight bulge near the top. A few large pockets that you'll feel guilty about not using because there are too many other holds.

If you contrived to stay on the face only it'd probably be mid-5.10.

This route makes a decent warm up for some of the harder stuff.  I would not hike up here to project this route.  It does have some fun moves though.  The climbing starts off with the hardest moves and after the 2nd bolt it gradually gets easier.

An undercut start using sidepulls and poor feet leads to more positive holds above, followed pockets near the top. Slopey jugs then lead to the anchors.

Up the thin seam that looks like it should be way easier than it is. Cruxy all the way.

The crux is the opening moves.  Use sharp but positive pockets and then head up and right to the flat shelf.  The foot holds in the beginning are really tiny.

This is one of the quintessential hard routes of American Fork - the one we have all stared at on the cover of the Ruckman guidebook. Nothing quite compares to the aesthetic beauty of the rock, and complexity of the movement required to put this thing down.

This route is in your face from the get-go. Start off with a hard boulder problem utilizing very small crimps. I've seen it done two ways; it's probably the same difficulty either way. Make big, powerful, dynamic moves in the dihedral until it's possible to move out left on very positive pockets. After a few hard traversing moves, a big deadpoint to a positive finger-jug leads to an ok rest. Catch your breath. A few more moves on small holds guard the final jug rail where the chains are easily clipped.

To climb High Tide, start on Dark Rum and climb through the steepest part of the black bulge. Where the bolt line splits, go left and climb just right of the arete to the chains. 11d/12a

The start is not as bad as it appears as the undercling is quite good.   Continue up and trend right.  The crux comes at the 5th bolt.  On the onsight, the top appears to go right on to the finish of Drifting, but you can go straight up for an independent finish which is of similar difficulty but the holds are a bit harder to see.  This route could make for a nice warm up for some of the harder lines in this area once you have the beta sorted.

A tricky, mildly strenuous start with a pocket, slightly-less-positive-edges than you'd like gets you past the first bolt to the second. Pockets lead upward to larger edges, then a traverse right to the anchors above the line to the right.

A nice line on great rock!  The crux comes at the traverse after clipping the 4th bolt.   Positive pockets and jugs to the finish.

Fire the first three bolts of Margarita, then traverse right on decent pockets for two bolts before heading straight up following small crimps and blocky holds to a set of anchors at the lip of the crag.

Really pretty rock, and very reasonable for the grade(if you have some endurance), with the hardest moves being the Margarita start.

Watch out for aging gear on this route.  The bolts are rusty, and a few draws look like they have been there a very long time.

A fairly mellow, yet balancy start leads to an almost-ledge and the second bolt. A committing move or two with tricky, somewhat poor feet leads to a mostly-out-of-sight, positive (yet smallish) hold and ok edges. Clip the third bolt, head up and traverse right to the anchors for the route to the right.

Continuous, back and forward on the face/arete.

Super technical face climb up the nice black wall. Start off the ground and go directly through the steepest part of the black bulge. Move right where the bolt line splits and finish up a thin face.

The crux is at the start, so stick clipping the first or second bolt is a good idea.   Start on positive pockets with small and slippery feet.  Gain the flat shelf at the 3rd bolt and then sinker pockets to the finish.   The finish is a bit run, but easy, and may be a bit dirty if it has not been done in a while.  Could serve as a warm up for the area.

"Simple to figure out, difficult to execute." - American Fork Canyon Rock Climbing Guide

This route shares the first bolt of Margarita (5.12).  Head straight up at the first bolt using the available pockets.  The crux is found between the 3rd and 4th bolt. Bust some challenging sequential, pocketed moves.  A micro crux is found up higher before the route changes angles.  A short, but stout American Fork Classic!

Cool boulder sequence down low, thin and graceful, powerful and slightly overhung - all leads to some milder climbing with an interesting move up high

Burly start on pockets with a reachy move or two leads to small feet and sidepulls.

Bamboo

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in South-Facing Wall