Northerners

The Pinwheel Direct

Bird Perch

Sigmoid Crack

Ed's Crack

Small Intestine

Face Left of The Prow

Curving Crack

Pseudo 5.10

Claustrophobia Crack

The Prow

The Pinwheel

Unnamed 5.12

Dihedral Crack

Large Intestine

The Ledge, Left Start

Birdshit Roof

The Ledge, Right Start

Unnamed 5.11+

Birdshit Crack

The vertical crack into an alcove and thru a pocketed roof right of birdshit

A hard boulder problem into a mantle out of the cave at the start leads to fun juggy climbing above

Climb up under the perched block, and find a way around it on either side

Ed's Crack offers a spendid opportunity to work on offwidth technique on smooth polished basalt.

Muddy wide climbing in the second crack system to the left of birdshit

From a point 15 ft left of the prow climb features and pockets past a horizontal crack. Small gear is possible to protect a 5.9+ move on small sharp pockets to a good shelf and the 1st bolt. Move left and up on excellent pockets to a 2nd bolt. A hole right of the bolt turns into a great undercling to facilitate a dyno to a flake up and left. Easier moves lead to the top.

Climb the thin crack in the open book right of the perched block.  The crack thins to a seam in the middle portion, but the rock get porous and shoes stick well.

Climb the right facing dihedral to the platform below the terraced roof where the crack thins to a tiny seam.  Figure out how to pull around the roof and up the good holds just out of reach, and then continue up to the ledge or over the top to the right.

Climb up the pile of stepping stones, and mantle into the tunnel, then chimney your way out of the tunnel, if you cant reach from the pile of rocks, this route could be much harder.

Climb the obvious arete at the south end of the east side of the canyon

The Pinwheel offers a moderate opportunity to sample the smooth polished basalt of Fossil Falls. pull up on overlapping smooth tile-like holds. Once on the shelf climb up and right to a steep headwall. Continue up the headwall on polished incuts to a mantle over the top.

Climb the scooped face to the thin discontinious crack next to the water streak.  This is the northern most route on the east side of the canyon.

A short hand to wide finger crack in the dihedral to the left of the tunnel leads to easier climbing above

The muddy wide crack first to the left of birdshit

Climb the dirty dihedral to under the roof, pull the roof and follow the crack to the large ledge just below the top of the canyon.

Climb up easy terrain to under the roof, place most of your rack in the finger to hand sized crack, and pull the roof, following the crack to the top.

Climb the left facing dihedral to under the long traversing finger crack in the back of the roof.  Pull the roof using small pockets, and regain the crack system up to the ledge.

climb the thin face holds and seam cracks to the left of the block.

The hand crack in the back of the dihedral, leading to a left leaning slab.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Falls