This is a beautiful, overhanging, right leaning splitter, wide crack.  Start on the backside of the boulder on two good hands and a left toe stuck in the crack above these hands, then climb down and around the bottom corner of the boulder and across a steep face before rounding another corner on the boulder, after which a short slab leads to the apex. The crack grows quickly from hands to offwidth and then slowly pinches back down to hands as it goes across the steep face, finishing as a finger sized crack by the time you have rocked over to the slab. This one is bizzarre and beautiful, and very much recommended. The name was inspired by the Shel Silverstien song "Boy Named Sue".

Crack Named Sue

Knockin' on Heaven's Door

Nubbins

Buck Shot

Ladder Blocks

Mista Lova Lova

University of Mars

Fingers in a Hallway

Le Petit Splitter

Ladder Blocks has a really fun combination of finger crack and block jugs. It could be done as a more difficult sit start if someone wanted to clean it.

Begin by climbing up the easy handcrack to the right of the route, being sure to look for the vertebra wedged in the crack.  Traverse left at the horizontal, and place gear (#1 Camalot sized).  Then, climb into the main crack, which is mostly flared hands.  The crux comes just before the slight bulge in the middle of the route.  It is sustained, flared hands until the very top, where you pull over the lip.  Build a gear anchor, and walk off to climber's right.

Nubbins climbs a short hands roof crack with a tricky lip. Start on one good jam and one kinda bad flared jam. You could start lower and make it a bit more difficult.

This is a very fun, left-facing, dihedral offwidth. It starts out fists and widens to a bombay offwidth as it goes over a bulge.  The crux is the top half.  This is a very fun and interesting offwidth of the non-stacking variety.  The name was inspired by the holes the problem left in my shirt.

This problem has some of the wildest moves I've ever done! Start at the very bottom of the crack below the wide flared section in two poor finger locks, and continue up the crack using hand jams and some circus performer contortions until you can stand up and climb crystals up the left slab. Be careful with the big foot edge to the right of the crack, it's crumbly and would probably make the exit of this problem much harder.

This is a pretty obvious feature, so I figure its probably been done before. Comment if you know better info, and we'll update the page.

This is an absolute classic. Start at the very far end of the roof and work your way through some offwidth moves which narrow to fists and then hands which just keep getting deeper as you go. Near the lip there are some interesting fins to negotiate. You can also go out the back side, which is a problem in its own right called "The Dark Side of Mars" which goes at about V4. For that version, start at the lowest point in the roof and climb out from there. The rock is especially sharp, so bring tape. Perhaps the name is in reference to Vedauwoo crack climbing in general.

This is a fun problem with good locks, the footholds are a little crumbly. Start with your right hand in a v-slot and a left hand undercling. The boulder is undercut at the start, keep your feet up on the face.

Le Petit ascends a nice hands splitter with a good landing and easy walkoff. It is a good warm-up.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Miscellaneous Lower Blair routes / problems