Pitch 1: 70 feet, 5.10. Obvious beautiful splitter, thin hands to hands to big hands.  Belay in alcove off two bolts. 

  Pitch 2: 80 feet, 5.10+ Wild! Climb out of the alcove and stem/face climb up the corner (5.9) for 60ft on great rock to the roof. Do a wild move out right and continue up a steep 15 feet(crux), to a rest pod just below the final roof. Sink in some gear (extend as far as you dare), and commit to the final airy boulder problem exit out left. Belay on a ledge off of two bolts.  Rappel the route with one 60m rope. 

  This route is in the sun until about 2PM

Tasmanian Devil

Aladdin's Lamp

Aladdin's Turban

The classic route on this nifty little spire is located on the uphill side of the formation.  Step off the ledge and straight into the business.  Flared hands/hands takes you into the handcrack crux in the limestone band.  After the limestone, keep cranking up into the pod rest, take a few moments and launch into and over the roof bulge on great hands.  A few moves over manky rock and you'll be summit bound.  The lower summit has a double-bolt anchor, but that's it for pro as you can either step in a sling or onto your partner's shoulders to gain the true summit.  Belly slide back down to the lower summit once you've satiated your thirst for summit views....

Pitch 1: 5.8, 70 feet.  Face climb up to the limestone band, boulder up it and continue up into a 5.8 chimney system which spits you out onto the shoulder of the spire.  Belay off tree or large boulder. 

  Pitch 2: 5.6, 30 feet.  Walk/scramble up to the base of the obvious summit slab.  Climb 20 feet up the unprotected 5.6 slab to the summit. Belay off bolts. 

  This route has some bad rock on it but it's easy to avoid.

A secluded area with stellar views over Soldiers Pass, Brins Mesa, Mormon Canyon, and the vast expanse to the north. It also has some great routes. You will likely never run into another party here.  The rock quality varies from very good on Tasmanian Devil to moderate on Aladdin's Lamp and Alladin's Turbin.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Soldiers Pass