Good climbing on thin-for-El-Rito holds with a good pocket every now and then leads to a big ledge. This ledge originally had a fair amount of rodent solid-waste, thus the name. It has been cleaned up nicely though--no worries.   Two more bolts on juggier terrain take you to the anchor bolts. Crux section is going through the area around the fourth bolt.     For more information, see Vaino's website.

Rodent Outhouse

Dr. Evil

Jug-or-Naut

Nine Lives

Mini Me

Chupacobbler

Cobzilla

Austin Powers, International Man of Mystery

Mister Bigglesworth

Sharks With Friggin' Laser Beams

Evil Medical School

Angry Sea Bass

A good, well-protected climb on the right end of The Balcony.  Climbs big, positive cobbles to the top. The name plays off the Austin Powers theme of the wall.

Best route on the Balcony, it is the furthest left. Well protected (as are all of Vaino's routes), it follows a nice line up overhanging stone to a nice rest then one more move to the two-bolt anchor. At the base of the route is a belay bolt. It is also suggested that the belayer stand just right of the route as to not kick rocks onto those climbing on Super Slab.

Follow the steep jugs up steep overhanging rock. A really nice route, crux is the first half of the route, after that, the grade mellows. Fun movement.

At least as hard and as good as Jug-or Naut - seemed a bit more continuous than the sister routes though. The route character is kind of a baby Rad Wall route- Big Holds, Big Moves and lots of them (though not as many moves as Rad Wall).

3rd route from the right end of the Balcony, this creatively-named climb follows a nice line up a green streak just right of Cobzilla.   It's a vertical face on quality rock, with a crux reachy section around the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and gets easier at the top. 

  As with most of the newer climbs at El Rito, this route is generously bolted, with quality hardware.

Follow the large holds up to the anchors. Not one that you would want to fall on, with its low angle and giant cobblestones (of course, this could be said for any of the low angle routes at El Rito.)

As is characteristic of the balcony, a short route. Kind-o-funky anchor placement. The 5th route on the wall (if looking from left to right).

The route is second in from an arete on the right side of the wall. Left of the the much better Mini Me. Follow a decent, juggy line past sketchy spinner bolts to the anchors. I hope the individual who put this route up has progressed in their bolt placement ability (the way these bolts sit away from the wall is not necessary). More difficult for shorter people.

Climb past two bolts to a small ledge and then up the left margin of a black streak. Move over into the black streak near the the top.

The 2nd climb from the left end is relatively tricky and is one of the hardest lines on the main part of the Balcony.  It angles up and right, with the crux moving past a bulge at about the 3rd bolt.  The top half is substantially easier, as the cliff angles back. 

  As with many of the newest routes at El Rito, it's generously bolted with high quality hardware, and fun; though this one is new enough that we knocked off a couple of small chunks, but it will clean up nicely with more traffic.

Climb past one bolt to a small ledge and continue up the face above

A shorter wall now with a good mix of routes on it. Note that many routes have been added since the online guidebook. Routes courtesy of Vaino Kodas! Thanks again.  See Vaino's website for a useful photo and updated info.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Balcony