Face cracks and ledges left of "The Fault" chimney.

Mr. Clean

Monkey Lip

Auto Immune Deficiency Syndrome Victim

Apesville

Clean Love

Bird's Nest Overhang

PG Advised

Flying Frog

The Fault

The Vertebrae.

Blood Transfusion

The Bone

Shriek of the Mutilated

Idiot's Delight

Brass Balls

Idiot's Journey

Smut

Catapult

Amy Carter

This awesome roof problem on Lower Castle Rock provides exciting moves and great exposure. Solid gear and a tricky lip sequence highlight this neglected classic.

5.10ish climbing leads up the slabs directly below the roof with spaced but good gear. Clip the manky pin and move into a awkward stance below the first roof. Fire in some gear and giv'er. The second roof is more easily climbed to a good ledge and a traditional anchor.

SUPER dirty climbing continues up to Loggers Ledge/Upper Castle.

This route starts near Brass Balls and then moves left through an overhanging section. (5.11) Thirty years ago this section was protected by several fixed pins. The low angle slab above the initial overhang is climbed to an obvious roof crack. (5.11-) The roof is more difficult that it first appears. Above the roof wander up scruffy rock to a belay ledge. Since the meat of the route is the initial overhang most escape off to the left via Clem’s Layback. The long section of mediocre climbing above the crux sections of this route and Apesville have probably limited their popularity despite the comparatively great climbing through the initial overhang.

Aids Victim is a three bolt face climb just to the right of Clean Love.

Apesville starts by climbing a crack (5.11) through the body length roof/overhang just left of Monkey Lip. Above the roof the difficulties ease and it crosses to the right of Monkey Lip’s second roof and then moves straight up through scruffy rock. The crux section is a bit intimidating and is the full overhang experience with good gear. If there was a fixed anchor above the crux section, this route and Monkey Lip would be quite popular. Without an anchor, a better finish is to escape via Clem’ Layback off to the left.

Clean Love is the second route right of The Fault chimney.

Long ignored route on the far right side of the lower Castle. Intimidating roof with ancient sling turns out to have nice holds for traversing left around roof. I cleaned the great crack above this that leads up to Loggers ledge.

Fred graded this 5.3, A1 for the roof in 1957

FFA: Jim McCarthy, Jim Langdon, 1968

PG Advised is a mixed gear and bolted route to climber's right of AIDS Victim.

Next route to the right of Amy Carter, and runs into it for the RFC steep hand jam crack, shares same anchor.

Climb the chimney in the center of the cliff ends at "Catapult".

This is one variation to climb off of Stoners ledge where the Bone takes off to the right. It is a short hard good crack.Fingers to hands to insecure slot, small roof with many loose blocks, and easy cracks above.There are many ways to wander to Loggers ledge, beware of mossy loose rock.

crux after 2nd bolt on steep blank face.

I cleaned some of the lower mossy holds, nice side pulls, but that thin face above 2nd bolt shut me down.

My favorite route at Castle Rock feels a little like the gunks transplanted here in Washington.  You have to do an approach pitch to smoke out ledge.  From the right side of the ledge climb up a crack, then traverse left out onto the bone, a massive roof jutting out from the wall, heel hook? campus? there are a number of options.  Continue to the base off upper Castle or belay along the way.

Starts on slab above the right end of Lower Castle at the top of whatever 2nd pitch you do to get there.

Well worth seeking out for the climbing up to Loggers ledge.

The crux is the perplexing move around the big roof.

One of the great things about this route is that the climbing above the crux roof is really good. All the other lower wall climbs have 1 good pitch and then low 5th class loose dirty climbing.

Fun climbing over two juggy roofs.  The crux is purported to be the finger crack above the second roof.  It pays to have a pair of big brass ones because the moves look harder than they really are...

Set up a belay at some point above the second roof and make a second pitch of low-fifth class to Logger's Ledge, or you could conceivably run the first one all the way up.

This is one of many variations leading up the lower Castle Rock wall connecting Amy Carter to Idiots Delight. There are many long lost climbs on Castle, where one runs into ancient pitons. I think this is unclimbed, loose, dirty and lots of plant life, Cleaner now, and pretty fun moves, RFC, hand jams, stemming, pull through steep corner up to ledge with 2) 1/4" bolts and leeper hangers

1st route left of the Fault chimney.

Not as hard as Mr. Clean, but also harder then it appears.

Just be sure to protect against ground fall.

tricky to protect after the bolt, small offset cams helpful.

Fun moves on this.

You get a lot of bang for your buck on this fun climb.  It's a dramatic-looking corner with a big roof right above the belay.  Don't worry, it's all there.

You should probably build a gear anchor at the obvious ledge.  Second pitch is low-fifth up to Logger's Ledge.

Often ignored right side has some good routes.

I like to do this every year, classic route.

There are 2 5.9's with this being the better of the two.This is the left one, Flying Frog is the last one to the right.

Starts up face to the right of some bolts(PG Advised), head for right arching layback crack, some spicy traversing on face holds to a right facing corner, hand crack through a steep bulge(2nd crux) to a bolted anchor on the left side of the crack.

Cleaned recently too.

Description

Protection

Routes in Lower Castle