Those who have never climbed on desert varnish will find this climb a splendid introduction.  The "glued on " nature of varnished holds over sandstone provides a unique climbing experience, of which the right hand flake near the first bolt is a fine example.  Remember, pull down and not out and don't climb when the rock is wet.  One would hate to contribute to the destruction of such an amazing climbing area. 

  Below the main wall, a flat ledge narrows and angles upwards the farther right you go.  It eventually opens up again below a lower angled portion of the face which allows 4th class access to set up tope ropes above.  Silk Panties starts midway up the narrow up-angling portion of the ledge and passes 5 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor.  The 5.7 rating may be a bit generous.

Silk Panties

Panty Raid

Eat My Shorts

Brief Encounter

Totally Clips

Boxer Rebellion

Granny Panties

Corner Office

Thong

Office Maxx

Viagra Falls

Panty Prow

Black Lace

Office Expansion

Victoria's Secret

Panty Line

The Last Panty

Butt Floss

Edible Panties

Butt Floss Left

Cover My Buttress

Sacred Undergarment Squeeze Job

Office Party

Wedgie

Tighty Whities

Panty Mime

Office Manager

A fine first lead and/or warm up climb on the Panty Wall, on the second bolt line from the right.

This single pitch trad line on the Panty Wall is to the left of the popular sport routes on the main face. The climb begins on the left side of the face, near where the pine tree used to be.  It heads straight up the face to a small ceiling produced by the transition to the black varnished plates. Climb the left margin of an orange section to a thin right leaning crack to a two-bolt anchor on top.

straight up the seam on small, crispy holds to the ledge above. you can walk up to the ledge to set up a toprope, which is probably the best way to climb this thing.

Fantastic route for the grade!  I wouldn't say there is truly a crux on this climb but it would be constant 5.8 and fun.  Sport route up a steepening wall with good holds.  Excellent route!

This route is a pretty fun route, but its otherwise cool nature is somewhat diminished by the flexing flakes that you use for holds, sometimes including the ones you are clipping from. The small and sustained nature of this climb gives it its grade, not the individual moves, which are probably only moderate 5.10. 

  Approach Panty Wall and walk to the far left, up a broad sloping gully to a very steep wall. At the left end of this wall is a flat face with a flake near the bottom. The crux, if I recall is about 1/2-way up the route. 

  Crimp and layback for 60 feet or so, passing 6 bolts to fixed rap anchors.

Another excellent sport route at the Panty Wall.  Pull a really fun move down low, then constant 5.8 climbing all the way to the anchors.  Offers good fun moves through a steepening wall that is really amazing for the grade.

This route climbs up from a small arching crack through varnished but crumbly rock to the same anchors as for Thong and Tighty Whities.  As of February 2007, this is the rightmost route on the Panty Wall.

Start on the slab face and climb up into the obvious corner.  Follow corner up and to the right.

This is the right-most 'route' of the right-most buttress of Panty Wall. 

  Approach Panty Wall via the normal trail. Start up and right on the ramp at the wall's base, trying hard not to step on or be bumped off by one of the 3 dozen climbers standing on it on any given day... 

  Pass the standard up/down scramble, a 4th class gully splitting the wall, then pass a few small crack systems to reach a short curved crack and flake at the wall's right end. This is moderate in difficulty and memory dictates that it is a mere 5m high. Climb up and into the crack (crux), then to the top (5.5?). 

  Walk off right or to the left and scramble down the little gully.

All the holds are obvious, due to the excessive chalk.  First three bolts are all .12 moves.  Start on a ledge; you can go either straight up to the first bolt, which is more difficult, or move right off the deck up to a ledge of good holds and travers to the first bolt.  After the fourth bolt, the pressure eases up considerably (maybe .7 or .8), with longer distances between bolts.

Panty Prow is a really fun arete climb on a formation just left of the main Panty Wall.  It climbs the right side of the wall past 5 bolts.

Another moderate sport route to help spread the crowds out. Red Rock moderates are getting loved to death. 7 bolts. Steep start and cruxy around the 4th bolt.

Fun Crimpy route about as hard as Corner Office.

Victoria's Secret is a worthwhile TR problem to try after climbing the Panty Prow.  Climb straight up the wall below Panty Prow's anchors to the top.

This is the right-most 'route' of the right-most buttress of Panty Wall. 

  Approach Panty Wall via the normal trail. Start up and right on the ramp at the wall's base, trying hard not to step on or be bumped off by one of the 3 dozen climbers standing on it on any given day... 

  Pass the standard up/down scramble, a 4th class gully splitting the wall, then pass a short 5.8 crack systems to reach right-facing flake near the ground. Climb up from this flake to a short 5.10a crack (one move wonder) and then up to the top of the wall. Memory dictates that it is a mere 7m high.  

  Walk off right and down a ramp to the base again, or walk to the left and scramble down the little gully.

Fun climbing on interesting features, but may be considered fragile and runout, with tricky gear placements, and rated X (though opinions vary on this.) Makes a great toprope route. Start at the corner on a low ledge and climb the right-leaning flake ( a short, skinny staircase,) then move up through the crux as you get onto the beautiful varnish. Continue up the steep wall which goes slightly past vertical in spots, until reaching a small unvarnished notch. Then climb up onto the ledge to reach the anchor.

Find the route Butt Floss (TR) as listed on this site- just to the left is a TR line that is independent and of independent character. If you were going to bother with a TR for the 7m of climbing on Butt Floss, you may as well double your mileage by climbing to the left of it as well. This crackless face is harder and more sustained. Maybe 11- or 10+. 

  Walk off right and down a ramp to the base again, or walk to the left and scramble down the little gully.

nice easy warm up route for beginners. easy to protect or walk up to far right to set TR.  This can be in the shade

The middle of the three 5.8s on the wall. Brief Encounter is to the left and Boxer Rebellion is to the right. VERY well protected!

Left-most route, start on arete, then up face.

The fingery route up the middle of the steep wall. Sustained 5.11 climbing off the deck brings you to a one move crux (easier if you're tall) three bolts up. Easier edging brings you to the anchors.

This top-rope route climbs the face directly to the right of Thong.

Great climb just left of Panty Prow.  Start on a block and use handholds to 1st bolt.  Past this it's all smearing feet with basically no hands.  Not too steep, very sustained difficulty.

Nice thin crack into a bit of a dihedral, finishes up on the face/slab. 1 bolt at start, 1 bolt at end, and bolted anchors.

Description

Protection

Routes in Panty Wall