HomeUSAColoradoBoulderEldorado Canyon State ParkWest Ridge, TheWest Ridge - part B - Long John to VerschneidungEin Kluck5.9Toothsheaf Transfusion5.11Edit modeWhite Rabbit5.9 XtradFA C. Harrison, S. East, 1980CREATED May 2023UPDATED May 2023Tick this climbDescriptionRefer to the directions to the routeVerchneidung. This route climbs the dihedral system to the left of the left hand side of the last pitch ofVerschneidung, andClear-A-Sill.From the belay tree at the top of the first pitch ofVerschneidungorClear-A-Sill, look up and left 20' to another evergreen. This tree has no fixed slings and is smaller but solid. Either move your belay to this tree, or clip it with an extension runner of at least 4'. Climb up and around to the right up a broken face into a corner system. There are 2 obvious dihedrals, and as the corner system becomes distinct, take the left of these two. This pitch is 30 meters long and leads to a crest in the rock where good gear (a red or pink tricam) can be placed prior to traversing over and down to a solid rappel station on a tree to the south on that same ridge. This is the same rap frequently used from the finish ofVerschneidung.Rap a single 60M rope stretching to the original belay station mentioned, and then to a walk of ledge. A single 70M rope will make the rap to the lower tree/station more comfortable, and then take you all the way to the ground from the tree.ProtectionPro to 2". Stoppers, tricams, and cams. The protection is less frequent than you'd hope for, and also not as good. Falling from the first 20-30' of this route would produce a massive stain on the slab below and probably end your climbing career. The climbing is not difficult but for one move, done with a so-so large stopper or tricam behind a large questionable flake.Reduced to simplicity: Climb carefully, distribute your weight carefully, test the holds, and keep both you and your belayer alive. Belaying from the lower tree ofVerschneidung(not moving up the belay) will produce a 35+ [meter] pitch and but it might afford more safety to the belayer should the leader [peel] off a large flake.That all said, my partner and I climber this 30 meter pitch without breaking a single hold or dropping any loose rock. The pitch was fun, and I enjoyed it, but it would not be fun to lead or follow if 5.9 was your limit. How this got put in the book without a S/VS rating is completely beyond me.Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung1Knife, The5.7+Trad2Thin Ice5.9+Trad · Tr3Long John Wall5.8Trad4Long John Direct (Original Aid Start)5.10bTrad5Quick Silver5.9+Trad6Uranus5.8-Trad7Think Quickly5.10-Trad8Pluto5.9Trad9Rock For Climbing Routes To5.10dTrad10Break on Through5.10bTrad11Break On Through to Chianti5.8+Trad12Rictus5.11cTrad13Chianti5.8+Trad14Sunshine Wall5.8Trad · Tr15The Gibbet5.11-Trad16Atom Smasher5.12cSport17Washington Irving5.6Trad18Next to Irving5.6Trad19Next to Nearly5.9Trad20The Unlead5.11bTrad · Tr21The Unsaid5.9Trad22Aftershock5.12a/bTr23Shock Of the New5.11cTrad · Tr24Strawberry Shortcut5.9+Trad25Cruisin' for Burgers5.10cTrad26Baby Sitter5.9Trad27Ein Kluck5.9Trad · Tr28White Rabbit5.9Trad 29Toothsheaf Transfusion5.11Trad · Tr30Ghetto Blaster5.10bTrad · Tr31Clear-a-Sill5.9Trad32Varieties Of Religious Experience5.11bTrad · Tr33Incarnation5.12c/dSport