P1- Climb up a left facing shallow runnel with the occasional step. We protected it with KB's and a stubby. Belay on nice ledge. W3 100+

P2-( 2 options). Option 1- Climb the thin, steep smear on the left with little to no protection to a nice ledge and better ice. W?

Option 2- Climb out right around the corner on a nice foot ledge. From here find the path of least resistance pounding pins up a low angle rock face, aim for a flake in a right facing corner (this took an OK nut). Mix your way to the lip and (hopefully) good ice and a belay. 5.8 W3 120ft.

P3. Climb up a good low angle ice ramp to the snowfield and dig yourself in. W3. short

P4-9. Depending on your conditions this could be a snow wallow or a cruise up frozen crust. The view from the ridge is really worth while. As you can see the AF/LCC ridge-line on your right and the upper reaches of Timp. on your left.

Descent: We walked down the north-east ridge eventually dropping down some steep bush lined gulley's to find the Aspen Grove Trail.

East Face Of the Robert's Horn

Lecherous Leanings

Some of you will note that this route seems to often have some C0 ratings to the pitches. It will be freed for certain. We didn't spend much time trying to free the individual moves....so you can get up it even if you aren't proficient at 5.11+++ choss! The young and the brave need to get after it! This is a bolted alpine climb.

Pitch #1: This starts directly on the prow of the Pillar. This may be the poorest quality rock on the route, but still it held some memorable moments for me! Follow the 9 bolts to the 3 bolt belay. Belay under a roof. 40m, 5.9 A0 or 5.11+!

Pitch #2: Some thin moves up and right through about 3 overlaps passing about 10 bolts to a great ledge and belay. Wild climbing! 5.9+ A0 or 5.11++. 30m.

Pitch #3: Climb the steep finger crack to a loose ledge (tag line) and then climb two more steep steps to the protected belay. 30m, 5.10.

Pitch #4: One of the best pitches on the route. Traverse left to a prominent Arete with good rock and excellent position. About 13 bolts bring you to the belay ledge. 40m, 5.9 A0 or 5.11+.

Pitch #5: Another tag lines gets the climber to pass the chossy ledge easier and remaining on the main aspect of the buttress, continue to the belay ledge. This pitch was drilled on lead. 35m, 5.7, 7 bolts.

Pitch #6: A nice pitch with good rock and very fine face climbing. 9 bolts. 30m. 5.9.

Pitch #7: Drilled on lead, follow the fun hand crack to the top. 25m, 5.7.

Thanks also to Tyler Phillips and Luke Douglas for humping loads to the top to initially check it out.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mt. Timpanogos