Climb the face to the right of Tunnel Runner Edge. The face can have lots of Lichens if not climbed recently. Thin edges.

Lichen Face (19)

Crescent Moon Crack

Crusty Nose (30)

Belle Star Crack (41)

Trad Freshman (38)

Captain Beyond (36)

Swiss Cheese (37)

Beginner's Corner (28)

Freshman Pockets

Belle Star Layback

Daylight Roof (39)

Miss Lili (33)

Fractured Face (29)

REL (31)

Squeeze Chimney (25)

Sail Face (20)

The Double Roof (34)

Flaky Traverse (24)

Shiftless Outlaw Boulder (21)

Sandy Crack (23)

Kryptonite (17)

Leaning Horse Post

Seek and Destroy

Gollum’s Rave

Bell Star Chimney (40)

Flaky Face (22)

The Naked Edge (32)

Tunnel Runner Edge (18)

Knobby Face (26)

Slick Ironite (27)

Flake Slide

The Vein (35)

If you stand facing Crusty Nose then turn 180 degrees around you will be facing this climb. Great edge climb across from Crusty Nose. Easy climbing at the bottom. Crux at the top. Use this route to set up top rope for Sail Face on the other side of this rock. Rap off by looping the rope over the two tree limbs hanging over the rock. Do so at your own risk. Top rope by doing the same with webbing and carabiner's. Lookout for lots of leaves and pine needles towards the top.

Hard start up to a left leaning crack that is just out of reach.  Finish straight up on ledge or move a little left for an easier top out.

Climb on the corner to the left of Fractured Face. Lots of holds. Most of the holds are rounded.

Thankfully hidden from the hordes of wayward teens and blaring sun, this 1-1/2" crack lies in an L-shaped slot canyon on the far Western end of the Horse Coral Face. The fairly consistent hand crack has a solid inner lip edge to make the slight overhang interesting. Emerging into the sun from the dark canyon by pulling over a roof on ergonomic jugs is quite a treat. If the going gets tough a handy wall lies but a few feet behind to stem into a 5.6 variation.

Climb the corner. We use this corner to train beginners on trad placement.

Outside corner on the left side of the corral wall. A runout start, poor pro, and an exciting finish make for one of the hardest routes out here. Undercling and smear to get off the ground, then pull on small edges to a horizontal crack. Take a break and gear up, you're only halfway! Or chicken out and stem up the corner and pull out onto the face at the horizontal crack.

Climb the ironite sheet with holes in it to the left of Captain Beyond.

Climb the corner between the Slick Ironite face on right and the Fractured Face on the left. Very positive holds, crux near top.

Crux is near the top.  It is a good and pumpy route.

Begin on a right facing vertical rail and a small two finger pocket. Lie back the rail and smear feet on the slab out right. Work your way into a horizontal and get your first piece of gear (around 12 feet up). Pull into the crack on thin hands and move past the bulge on good jams. Climb around the roof and on to the headwall for the finish. Avoid using the wall behind you or the grade drops to around 5.6.

Climb the eastern wall using the crack then traverse under the roof along the horizontal crack and out.

8 feet up onto a little grassy area bout 5x3 and on up. the finishing hold is unusual you just have to come at it right.

Climb the fractured face to the left of Beginner's Corner. Many sloping holds. Used to be good edges but have been worn off to slopers over the years due to over use and weather.

Start on the "Z" crack in the ironite. Pull up over the ironite edge to the shallow crack. Go straight up this crack.

Trad protectable chimney. I believe this is the top 1/2 of Flaky Traverse.

This route is on the opposite side from Lichen Face. Go down the step to the right of Lichen Face, turn left then look up to find the sail shape in the rock. Climb up to the sail on nice holds. Crux is in getting out of the sail and onto the upper face. First ascent is unknown and the name is something my friends and myself call it.

The start leans from the left so you are always on the edge of peeling away. A rock sticking out of the ground at your feet makes the landing uneven and a injury likely on lead. You can climb straight out at the top or go to the left both 5.10.

This climb is about 20 feet to the right of Slick Ironite. Start on Flaky Face 1/2 way between the small pine tree on the right an d the crack on the left. Climb the face to the overhead flakes then traverse left to the lay-back on the off-width or try Yuri's variation. Yuri's variation when you get to the lay-back set your pro in the crack and climb the face to the right of the crack. See the picture for a look at this route.

Boulder Face opposite Sail Race.  Many problems.

This route is just to the right of Flaky Travers start. Start to the right of the small pine tree and follow the sandy crack until it traverses slightly left. Climb the face out.

Climb the dished out rock to the left of Tunnel Runner Edge (18). Climb out of the dish onto pockets to the left edge then the top.

Sit Start.  Climb the obvious angled crack as it goes right to the corner.  The Crux is in the middle as it thins out, then back to a shelf type crack.  It was tougher than it looked till you get creative with your feet.

A strikingly red boulder with a hardened scaly hide on the underside. Start completely underneath the armored roof on two separate hand-holds. Make a move to the lip and eventually gain the first rail. Rock onto the face and cruise up the rails to the top.

Starts low in the back of the cave on a slopey jug block. Climb a series of tenuous moves through a drape of sandstone and gain the ironite crimp rail. Cruise the rail to the redpoint crux which is pulling the lip on a two finger shallow pocket and sinker two finger left hand. Top out the airy slab to finish one of the best boulder problems at Robber’s Cave.

This is the first face you will encounter in the Horse Corral as you hike in.

Climb the Ironite edge 2 feet left of the upper crack on REL.

Beautiful face with lots of knobs, slopers and cracks.

Climb the ironite edges to the right of Beginner's Corner. Stay on the the ironite edge and use the pockets towards the top. Great climb. Ironite can be sharp in some places.

Climb what can be described as a slide with flaky ironite on the side.

Very fun climb on slick face with small but positive holds, many variations possible. Favorite climb in the park. Climb up through the cracks that look like the veins in a leaf. Left of Double Roof.

Approx. 18 routes ranging from 25 to 40 feet tall. Quality routes, mostly top-rope with some trad leads. No bolts nor chalk allowed. Many climbs have a smooth ironite covering with small but very positive inset holds and huecos, with sandstone slopers where there is no ironite. Bomber sandstone holds pro well, but there aren't many good protectable cracks. Small area often overran by rappelling boy scouts and tourons.

Description

Protection

Routes in Horse Corral Face