Crimp directly up the right side of the face to anchors, with the crux right above bolt 3.

Jason's Bicep

Nose in a Day

Billy's Ghost Dance

The 1st two bolts are the same as

Billy's Ghost Dance

.  Once you get past the second bolt, there's a lot of loose rock. It also breaks off pretty easily, so be super gentle on it.  After the third bolt, there's a smooth section that goes to the face you have to climb up and over to get to the anchors.  The place to stand at the top is really small.  We had a tough time having two people up there and still being able to maneuver.

This is the second route on this wall but the first easily seen from the path. The first route (currently a project, 5.13+) is behind some trees around the north corner of the wall. From photo, Billy's Ghost Dance is the left of the two routes.

This route shares the first two bolts straight up jugs with

Nose in a Day

(5.7) and then veers left to more delicate slab climbing. From the top of the route, Pike's Peak looms over the  Whale's Tail Wall on the other side of the canyon.

As mentioned in the guidebook, there is a great deal of loose rock laying around at the top of these two 100 foot climbs.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Westbay Wall