A blocky start leads to a left slanting crack capped by a roof which is bypassed on the right up to a ledge with a tree.  The ledge is part of the cactus ledge but is so covered in Poison Ivy and Brush that you can't get across it.  There are 2 more pitches, though they are rarely done. 

  This is the standard route. It traverses right as soon as a ledge can be reached on that side, by learning across and mantling onto it (or stepping wide if you're stretchier than I am). This traverse happens several moves below the roof, which is referred to in some guidebooks as "variation 1."

Three Buttresses (first pitch)

Open Book

Three Buttresses (first pitch, variation 2)

Dean's List

Dean's List (arête variation)

Tales from the Crypt

Climb to the open book about 8 feet above the trail, then follow it to below an overhang. Hand traverse right under the overhang (instead of  mantling onto the lower ledge in the original version), and reach a cedar tree belay station.

This is usually free solo'd to setup TR's for Tales and Deans if you're not up to leading on the old/sparse bolts. You can traverse into the book on blocky ledges. During the summer, the top part where the book meets the ledge is overgrown with lots of Poison Ivy.

Start in an easy dihedral, the crux comes above the second bolt with some small holds and making a dynamic move to an ok hold on the arete, a few jugs lead to a small ledge where a good rest out right can be obtained.  The top is more sustained climbing on small holds.  If you blow it at the top, there is a chance you could hit the tree.

Start in an easy dihedral, and follow the bolts to the anchor. Use the arête for a 5.9 climb; avoiding it will yield a 5.11 crux instead.

The climb is on the Great Buttress, it's the obvious bolted line on the left.  A little runout and pumpy at the top. BE KIND TO THE CACTI!!! Did the upper pitches once with 3 good friends and a couple cold beers in tow. Worth the effort of tricky gear and route finding through questionable rock. I only remember one bolt after the cactus ledge and then making a skecthy belay on the next large ledge. I ended up getting a couple pieces in and clearing a beautiful crack out of vegetation on the final slab to the top.  Belay off the fence at the top and answer questions from non-climbers while bringing your partner(s) up.  

  P1: 5.10a PG. 60 feet, 3 bolts.   P2/3: 5.7? R. 60 feet?, 2 bolts?.

The Great Buttress is the tallest section of High Rocks cliffs and contains several nice routes.  The section is identified by Cactus Ledge, the nice ledge with bolted belays approximately 50 feet up.  Please be careful to not trample the cactus on Cactus Ledge.  Cactus Ledge can be accessed by 4th-low 5th class ramps on the left side or by climbing Open Book (5.2G), a nice beginner lead.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in g. The Great Buttress