[Originally posted as Gyro Dancer, name and FA changed to give credit to original developer] Sweet friction-y arete climb that can be done a few ways, either v2+ to v3+ depending on height and span. Beta below:Sit start matched on a ledge with a right foot flake, and the option of a far left foot ledge or a ledge under your hand start. Move out and left to a sidepull, rearrange your feet and move on the arete with your right and into an undercling with your left hand. Transfer onto the arete with both hands using tension and move out right to a crimp slot. Bump your left up, match into the arete, use an awesome ball hold, and throw out right to a dish and a good topout using an immaculate left pinch. This route has been climbed direct, and adds fun techy moves to the start and maybe half a grade. This version is definitely more "pure", but you should climb it however makes you happy. 

Tetanus

Two Step

Porcupine Crack

Slab of Bacon

This slab was cleaned in spring of 2021, and could still use some cleaning in the cracks and at the topout. This serves as a reminder there's lots of cool potential out here, go give it a try! This slab is a decent climb, but has a massive shelf for feet before moving into the topout, which takes some of fun out of it. The bottom has plentiful hands and feet, and the topout is a committing movement into a mantle, which is the crux. This slab can be climbed using a stand start on the left arete with a large foot chip, a stand stand direct using the pocket-y crimps, and a sit/squat start in the right vertical crack. Follow the two vertical cracks up, everything seems to be in the territory of v1. 

Stand start a little ways into Porcupine crack (big horizontal crack) with your feet on the big ledge and go up. Big move to slopey crimp then the top. Short but sweet. 

 

Start at the far left end of the crack and traverse horizontally up to your right negotiating the crack and feet on obvious foot holds. Traverse fully to the right hand corner and top out on corner. Great climb lots of fun.

Main area is the on the face with the horizontal crack.   Potential all along Western cliff band.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in West Face