Excellent sustained climbing up the left side of the prominent buttress.  Start up, some slightly chossy rock right of the crack, then move a bit to the right to gain the stance below the roof.  Pull the roof to the left and then move back right onto the gently overhanging face.  Continue up on sustained edges to a large ledge.

Serpico

Texas Chainsaw Massacre

A Complicated System of Pulleys and Leavers

White African

White Lightning

Smoked Cake

Strenuous face climbing leads to a gold arete.

9 bolts. A very steep face leads to a technical black headwall. A little loose. Lower off

Like many of the routes at the Bear Crag this route begins with a few steep moves through some questionable rock. Stick clipping the first bolt is highly recommended as it is on other routes at the Bear Crag. Crank through the opening steepness and then move slightly right to the third bolt. You then mantle a sloping ledge and clip the fixed chain draw which protects the thin crux. The golden panel which leads up from the ledge is likely what Bachar was aiming for if he was in fact the one who placed the original two bolts. Don't cheat yourself by moving way right of the chain draw onto easier ground. Good footwork and a few small crimps allow you to pull the slight bulge at the chain draw directly. After the crux continue up the center of the golden panel on increasingly large holds making three more clips along the way. Mantle another small ledge, make one more clip, and crank fun holds to the two bolt anchor.

Equipped with eight Bolt Products 8mm Twist glue-in bolts. The fourth bolt is equipped with a fixed chain draw to facilitate a high clip at the crux and to help with cleaning the lowest three bolts on the way down.

This route was an unfinished project which was revived in 2019 and bolted and red pointed in the summer of 2021. It was labeled as "F - Open Project - John Bachar" in the Fire Wall section of Marty Lewis' 4th Edition Mammoth Area Rock Climbs, which is the definitive guide to the Bear Crag. The open project consisted of just two lead bolts which had leaver 'biners on them. The anchor was installed with a system of pendulums from an approach anchor in the choss above the panel. The name comes from MJ exclaiming "It's just a complicated system of pulleys and levers!" during the anchor installation.

A bouldery start leads to a roof, then climb the dihedral.

8 bolts. Pass a bulge then climb the white streak on the face between cracks, a little contrived. Lower off

Description

Protection

Routes in 2) Fire Wall