Fly by Night

Blasted Rock #2

The Painted Boulders

Silk Banana

Pickpocket

Uncertainty Principle

Mr. Sniod

Misspent Youth

Lemon Chiffon

Driving South

Motor City

Rock The Boat

Bobby Brown Arete

Dinkyblackknobs

Unknown Slab

The Joker

Eric's Crack

Boulder with 3 Cracks

Titanic Boulder

Full Circle

Hellrazor

10a on the Outside

Anticlimax Mantle

The Diameter

Kurtains For Certain

RURP right

The Painted Boulder Traverse

Fun little slab right off the road. Multiple variations can be done with varying difficulties. The center problem climbs like a mini 'Starface', minimal holds on great rock. Worth doing!

Start matched on the left most hold on the horizontal seam and traverse right keeping your feet low. The crux is pulling over the lip/bulge. Once over the lip follow the thin edges via the most logical route to the summit. Easy down climb off the back.

These couple of roadside boulders have several topropes or boulder problems that range from 5.8 to 5.12 (Woodward Direct).  Thankfully much of the paint that was dumped on them so many years ago has worn off, via nature.

A right traversing layback/undercling with slippery feet and gradually slippier hands.

A few walking strides past "Driving South" is this fun face climb.  On the right side of the road, this face features softball size dents in the rock with the crux coming a bit short of top.

Overseeing the landscape is the patriarch of Mt. Woodson, The Uncertainty Principle.  Some despise it while some revere it, but all respect it!  From the gate, it is located about a half mile up the road, capturing the interest of all who pass by it.  Continue up the road past the roadside route

Rock The Boat

and take a left turn trail to easily access.  The route involves stepping off a boulder on the right side climbing straight up to the top.  The crux is getting past the initial moves.

Highly recommended.

This face route climbs the boulder on the lower left of U.P. facing south.  It starts in a bit of an alcove moving up and right before finishing up and left.  A knob move about 1/3 of the way up is the key.

Sit start matched on a small rail on the left side of the boulder.  One hard move to the lip and it's over.

Got soles?  Sliding off of this boulder problem is safe but uses up your shoes.  On the trail to Uncertainty Principle, to one's right is this short seam.  Fun and safe.

Don't let the rating or the short nature of this climb fool you.  This is a stout thin fingers crack that is plain and simply absent of feet.  It is located on the right side of the road just past

Rock The Boat

.

Lieback from a bottoming groove to a big righthand huck to the rounded corner and power over the top

Originally an aid route, this is one of the few bolted lead routes at Mt. Woodson.  Just past the Uncertainty Principle switchback on one's left is this route.  If you look right from this one, you'd see the Robbins Crack.

This little gem is yet another Woodson sole stealer.  Smear and palm your way up the left corner of this short roadside problem

Start with a high reach, left hand on the sharp knob and crank!

Dicey, delicate moves out of a depression to reach a flake and huck for the top

This is the offwidth splitter located on the backside of the big boulder, a few yards left of the Mr. Snoid boulder.  A big tree is on the side that a climber would see from the road.

Three obvious cracks. The left and right cracks are finger width. The middle crack is off width.

The most often tried problem on this boulder is a groove that has a nice knob about chest height, but minimal feet.  Its about a foot off the road, facing the road, just before the right hairpin turn to Uncertainty Principle

Start on far right side of flake, traverse a couple moves and gun to the lip.  A shorter variation exists, start with hands on right facing sidepulls. Climb is then two moves and a bit easier.

Video:

vimeo.com/38012966

This the very hard face climb just right of Eric's Crack.

Short and stout. Lieback and crimp your way up this seam with really bad feet through the crux. Have your calluses built up for this one, the top crimps are sharp.Kevin Powell visited Woodson and sent this unclimbed Woodson local project in tennis shoes and cheekily said, "it's 10a, on the outside".

Man, what a gem. Purely round. Start on slopers with feet in the seam, pull up and over the bulge. No jumping.

This may be something different, it's unclear where the actual "Anticlimax Mantle" is on the boulder.

Start matched on the middle of the “Full Circle” rail, dyno to the lip.

https://youtu.be/rYlyY7STrtk

This route starts as Uncertainty Principle, but traverses left towards a bolt.  From here it heads up to finish the same.  Not often done.

The route on the right of the A3 RURP face behind Uncertainty Principal.

Traverse the Painted Boulder by using the flakes coming out of the ground of the boulder for feet. Climb either direction until no more flakes. Great warm-up.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Uncertainty Principle Area