Moderate face for a few bolts, then pull a crux bulge on long reaches between jugs.  Gain a no-hands rest above the bulge, then pull an easier crux moving left into good incut holds.  Finish on a short hand crack.

Pretty soft for .11d as Humboldt grades go, but really quality climbing.

Fearless Leader

Right Wing

Dragon's Breath

The Nihilist

Little Wing

Meander through some choss off the ground, then immediately pull a steep bulge on huge holds.  At the 6th bolt, head left (straight up is a 5.13+ project) through a slabby section and gain a no-hands rest after clipping the 7th bolt.

The crux comes pretty quick after the rest, getting into and moving past a poor left-hand sidepull.  However, the route stays pretty full-on all the way to the anchors.  Unlike "Fearless Leader" which is pretty soft for the grade, this one is pretty stout.  Killer route for the 5.12 climber.

Look for the obvious right facing dihedral in the center of the wall leading up to a ledge. At the top it forks. Little Wing is a newer direct finish that goes straight up. Right Wing goes, you guessed it... right. The route requires gear to be led safely, otherwise it is very R rated. After the last bolt, you can place a yellow metolius a #2 cam.  Shares an anchor with Sniper 12d.

Overhanging, blocky, and juggy!  Start in a squeeze chimney, pull onto a ramp, then head up the nicely featured face.  Crux is probably transitioning out of the chimney near the 2nd bolt.  Pretty steep for 5.10.

Clip 2 bolts in a right-facing corner, place a small piece, clip another bolt, then gain a rest on top of a large block. The upper wall is steep and juggy with another bolt and a couple more gear placements. Finish at the anchors directly above.

This route is a straight up variation to Left Wing and Right Wing, both of which end at anchors fairly far left and right, respectively, of the main route line.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Bowling Ball