Climb the right-facing corner of a short pillar ranging from fists to chickenwings. Surmount the first ledge, and either continue up the crack to a bolted anchor at the second ledge or lower off of a bolted anchor at the first ledge. The second pitch is fingers to knee locks (#5s).

I Need My Pants

Ferry Angle

Moondance

Drinking with Gambino

Nerve Endings

Moon River

Shaking the Goat

I really enjoyed this route. Climb moderate chimney moves up to the offwidth finish. Plenty of cheats and just 2 actual OW moves make this a pleasant climb. Climb on the outside or inside of the chockstone, stand on top and lower from the slung chockstone.

P1. Climb a crux boulder problem right off the deck on sandy sloper jugs. Climb some balancy moves to gain better holds up higher, and finish on the thin crack, 5.12-, 50 feet.

P2. This is an unclimbed obvious crack extension. The crack is really dirty, especially right off the P1 anchors. It is probably in the 5.12 range, 50 feet.

This is another very obvious route on the same buttress as

Moon River

and

Shaking the Goat

.

Pitch #1. Climb the varnished, thin hands corner. It is fairly sustained and very good. Step left at a stance on a white scoop, and belay at 2 good bolts with rings, 80-85 feet, 5.10.

Pitch #2. Continue up the varnished corner. The crack gets a bit wider with more pure hands before getting wider at the top with a short section of chimney. Belay at a small ledge, with 2 good bolts (chains) out to the right, 95-100 feet, 5.10.

The route likely continues to at least the shoulder of the Buttress and possibly the summit.

Start in the the obvious corner. Follow the corner up about 10 feet, then step right on a sloping ledge. Follow the broken crack systems up around slightly right to the base of the obvious, varnished, perfect, splitter crack. Climb the crack until it jogs left, and find the bomber 2 bolt anchor. The anchor has rap rings.

Pitch #1. Start up towards a short, wide slot at the base of the obvious corner system overhead. Pull some tough liebackish moves to get yourself into the slot. Continue climbing the corner system above. When you reach a white bulge, find a bolt, and move around to the right. Climb past 2 fixed pitons. Then head right across a short slab section to gain the anchor at the base of another corner system. This pitch will go clean and maybe free, 5.11 A2-, 140 feet.

Pitch #2. Climb up the obvious corner above. Start with a few free moves to gain the varnished corner. Pass 1 fixed piton. When the varnish ends, move around the bulge to the left. A few more moves gets you into a short chimney section. Climb up and onto the HUGE ledge on the right. This pitch will go clean easily but free is doubtful, 5.8 A2-, 100 feet.

Pitch #3. Climb up the final summit spire. There are multiple bolts to lead the way, 5.9 A1. 60 feet.

Rappel the route to descend. All the anchors are bomber.

Climb the obvious, thin, varnished corner. There is a bomber 2 bolt anchor, with rings, at the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mouth of Mee Canyon Area