This long sustained route will make 5.10 gym climbers cry. Climb through well spaced bolts on slab, cracks, and chicken heads. Brings lots of slings to help with drag, although you'll have all but the full weight of the rope on you by the chains. Every other bolt (or so) is a 5/16 button head in the crux sections. The button heads should be treated as suspect.

Too Much Fun for You

American Slab Dance

Flakey

Spring Fling

Checkered Dog

Duct tape crack

Bullet from Fritz

Freedom Roof

Local Motion

Vein of Gold

Orangutan Overhang

Black Wall

The Slot

Unknown 2

Zigzag

Center Slab Left

Inside Right

Just One More

Shot on Sight

Chickenhead

5.9 climb the corner 15' to the cruxy roof, pull the small roof up to a fixed nut. Continue up the crack then move on slabish chicken heads up to ledge.   Belay out of the crack at top of bushy ledge. Continue up the corner past a loose-looking chockstone but feels stable, slab out right up to another small roof, pull the roof to a very awkward/dirty chimney or out right in a crack, grass at top and finish on two bolts and one piton, rap the route with two double ropes.

This route climbs the clean slab to the left of the second pitch of Orangutan Overhang. 4 bolts of  thin nubbins lead to an easy crack and moderate jugs on the upper head wall. Bring your dancing shoes.

This is a super fun climb with a difficulty and mental crux right off the deck. Climb up to a small roof, pull over the roof, climb enjoyable, if hollow sounding, flakes. When you get to the junction and can either choose to move left up a corner, or right into an alcove and then another corner, go right. Make a fun balancey move to the crack, and climb direct to the anchor.

Start just left of and below a grass ledge that angles up and left.  Climb up a slightly right trending crack system passing some grass patches and a small roof on your left.  There will be a somewhat elusive bolt as you trend right towards a corner that goes direct to the anchor.

This fun little crack is good to play on if you're looking for a little bit of spice in your life. While simple looking, finicky gear leads to a surprisingly steep splitter that has spit off many a 5.10 climber. Once you've topped out the crack climb easy 5th class to the anchor very far right.

Start right of the overhanging Boulder problem. Climb up and left up slabby dikes to the point where your feet are on the finish jug of the overhang. Continue straight up to a perfect sized fist crack.

This climb begins down the grass ledge shared with the anchor from Chicken head. Climb the left edge of the slab following a few bolts into some difficult climbing and then into a crack system to finish at the top of the cliff.  Walk off, or rappel either with two ropes or two raps.

The second pitch of either the slot or zig zag. Climb through a couple bolts (2) to the roof, clip before pulling the roof and climb to the anchors past one bolt on some awesome chicken heads.

This route isn't as easy as it looks, nor as easy as the old hand-drawn guides say it is, and the runout makes it not much of a beginner-friendly lead.  The crux is on a bulge near the top.  Walk off, or rap with two ropes.

Wow this route is good! Climb one of the lower tier climbs to gain a sloping ledge, most climbers choose Checkered Dog (5.9) as it leads directly to the base of the climb. Build an anchor or use the anchor for 'Checkered Dog' traverse back to the left to gain a corner and place some weird gear. climb to the beautiful left arching crack and place some small gear, sack up and climb the delicate moves through the smears and small tips until the gear gets bigger. Climb up and slightly right to a giant flake, several hand size cams will make this easy climbing feel very safe.  There are several bolts in the corner after the arching crack, these are shared with Shot on Sight and all need to be replaced. 

Starts in a more broken, left trending crack that goes more direct (through a small roof in the upper crack system) to the anchor station shared with Checkered Dog. 

  The route is likely a bit dirtier and wetter than some of the other nearby routes, but is nonetheless worthwhile with fun movement (especially considering the roof for a 5.8ish route).

Follow the crack system starting at the right edge of this face to a slabby traverse to the left to meet another crack system behind a hollow sounding block.  Excellent pro options make this a great first lead.

This route is to the left of flakey, it climbs chicken heads passing two bolts, place some gear as the climbing eases off passing a 1/4 bolt. I'm not sure that the 5.10 rating in Kelsey's guide is correct, but the section with the two bolts at the bottom is quite difficult, probably mid 5.11.

Start in the "zigzagging" cracks that have a little rail in between them. Once high enough to clip the first bolt, traverse left and then continue up on some sweet chicken head/slab moves to clip one more bolt. Pass a horizontal crack and then enter a 10' easy lieback section to the anchor 

  I think this might actually be two different routes. For the actual "Zig-Zag" you are not supposed to traverse left, but continue up the crack. And the face route is actually "Center Slab Left." ? 

Climb left of Zig Zag and The Slot up a steep slab on chickenheads. Start on the left for a cruxy start and a high first bolt, or do the first few moves of Zig Zag and then move left so you can get a piece in before said bolt. Route joins with Zig Zag and The Slot for the top section, and shares anchors.

This is a nice little warm up if the better 5.7s are already being climbed. It also can serve for an access to top rope flakey.  

  Scramble up to ledge and place gear. Stem up and use the crack until you reach the short roof. protect yourself from ledging and pull the roof. Climb the nice splitter up through the slabby corner.

Climb a hand-sized crack, slightly flared and shallow, until it ends, then continue up to a bolt. From the bolt, traverse left, eventually joining with The Slot and climb to the anchors.

This climb follows a corner, I have not done this route, it is often very wet and has a couple bailers on it.

Head up the left side of the slab on chickenheads to a grassy ledge with a two bolt anchor.  Either rap off, or continue and finish up with the second half of another route (5.7 from this point, follows the crack system).

Sounds cool and big, not that impressive, but definitely the biggest crag.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Monolith